Thanks for the posts.
Motor Mods
One of the reasons I selected this car is the chassis is a little more flexible than most dual plate cars. It peforms well in the corners. Because of this and the fact that brushless cans are longer than the old brushed cans the end of the motor tends to rub the ground in a high g corner. I let the original motor get marks and then sanded it away to match the chassis bottom which is not flat. the edges are rolled up at an angle for ground clearance. You can see in the pic the light area I sanded away on this new 3.0 LRP X12 motor. I found that by aiming the leads forward a little instead of straight up that the motor screws are out of the way. Sanding away this material thus does no harm. Use a straight edge on the chassis and sand away until the straight edge does not touch the motor. The bottom is angled to the motor so you cut away a little wedge. Make sure the motor is aligned not to cut away screw heads.
Note that a previous owner enlarged the motor hole in the chassis. This weakened it an caused a break even though impact was on the front corner. I reinforced the chassis by gluing on a little graphite plate to the side. Should be good as, well used, which is what it is.
Note also lightened rear bumper as part of an overall lightening strategy.
I am using one long strip of tape and three cross strips now to keep the battery really secure.
Sway bars again
Sway bars increase responsiveness stability and steering precision at the expense of a little cornering traction.
I have increased the size of the front and rear by one size. I had small (.050) front, medium small (.060), rear now I have medium small front, medium rear(.070). I had some new scratches Sunday even on the beveled motor. I shaved a little more motor off, but the car may improve lap times with slightly more roll stiffness.