HI,
This is a carpet set-up I used last night, It got me much closer to the A finla than the others I have tried. Still not there but read on, The only thing I would say is I measured the droop from the front of the wish bone, but since the car has anti-dive it would be even lower. I increased the droop for the finla race and the car was really getting there for me- Thanks every one who has pitched in with this:
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6
I am ready to dial some more steering inot the car as well as take the anti-dive away so smooth out the steering through out the corner, But I will be running about 7mm front droop to start.
Other things I will be trying are
and in this order one at a time)
Full re-bound in all shocks to get responsiveness back
2mm under rear ball stud- just to stop it running out of travel late in the corner.
2mm under front ball stud- to smooth transition
Standing the rear shocks up
Softer front springs
any other ideas to try appricated - and hope its of inspiration to others,
Mi