Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

Sure thing!

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing


Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.

This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.

Happy Racing!

-Korey