Brion Sohn: Thanks for the reply! You say prototype, is that an all new car by design? Is it a car combined of another kit and your chassis? There are alot of "chassis makers" out there nowadays... it would be good to see an all new, clean sheet design that rivaled the Barracuda R2/3. I dont mean this as an insult to any form of manufacturer out there, but just about anyone can slap TC3 parts to flat graphite of varying shapes! Do you have any pics of the car you are referring too? Congrats on the wins! Nothing feels better than seeing your hard work in the winners circle!

Roborat: Losi hubs do give you the option to move rear toe outboard of the arms. If your rear toe is adjusted outboard, instead of the inner rear arm hingepins, your car will rotate easier through corners, and give you more overall traction on and off power. Although the differences are moreso apparent in offroad racing, because of the rough track handling capable of outboard toe (and added shock extension), the differences CAN be felt in TC. Losi rear hubs are usually on the TC3 with the TC3 black ballstuds in the inner hole, the outer hole giving you more rear "bite", or depending on the width foams/tires you are using in the rear, you can add washers under the black ballstud, or use a silver ballstud, to adjust "bite" as well. As far as the angle added to the link by using the Losi hubs making any apparent change is debatable, i feel it does, but i have been doubted on its effect on other threads in the past. I will say this, if we can add .030 under a ballstud for bumpsteer and feel the change (which changes the angle of the link) then why couldnt you feel a change in link angle that is more than three times that amount?

As far as suspension mounts for zero toe in the back, assemble your front mounts (F-O and F) on the front of the car with pins, no suspension arms OR tranny cases, and measure pin height from the side of the car, front and back of the pins, where the pins meet the mount, in comparison with the lower chassis with your calipers to get dive/caster. Then from the top, measure between both pins front and back of the pin, to get toe. Make sure the measurements match (are even), and you will have zero toe and zero squat. Copy this on the back of the car with mounts that match, and you have zero toe and squat in the rear. Add washers if (and will be) needed. Add the outboard Losi toe in blocks and, there you go. If you decide to use rear squat or front antidive/caster in your pin mounts, then washers can be used to give added effect.

Keep in mind, adding washers under the STOCK blocks of equal measurement (i.e. .030) front and rear will lower the chassis to the track, causing you to add shock extension/droop to raise the car back to rideheight, but more importantly, will change overall handling of the car due to "roll center" change (changing weight effect of the chassis on the inner hingepins front and rear). The idea is to do this without excessive change to the stock measurements. I say "excessive" loosely. The idea is some bench time, a notebook and pen. I hope i didnt confuse ya...

- Dave