Originally Posted by
Charles Godwin
Right guys n gals. Looking to get down to the track mid week to do some proper testing but i have a few questions (it'll be my first time out on track with the car). I've set the clutch at the standard settings. Now a few questions about it...... Tightening/loosening the clutch spring - what effect will it have on the car? I'm guessing tighter the nut (not to much) the more punch it will have out of the corners as it will have a higher rpm when it engages? But to tight and it won't even engage because it can't 'expand'...?
Yes.
Clutch gap i've set at standard 0.7mm. Now if i used 0.8mm would it have again more punch and if i used 0.6mm it would be smoother/easier out of the corners?
Yes.
Now about the end play. I've set the clutch gap etc etc and it says place small shims after the clutch nut and in between the first bearing. Would that effect the clutch gap though? Or do i just carry on shimming it out so it has little end play (just enough)? It's probably got about 0.5mm end play after i set the gap and placed a couple of shims behind the bigger bearing.
No, it will not effect the clutch gap.
Indeed carry on shimming until the cluchbell starts binding, then take the last shim out again...
Now i've adjusted the two speed shoe-gap as the manuel states. I would guess that more of a gap between the 2-speed shoes and the gear drum/bell would result in a later gear shift? How much would yo notice on say quarter of a turn adjustment? Or just use fine adjustment say a 8th of a turn if its sensitive?
No, the bigger the gap, the more agressive the shifting will be.
You don't want that.
Make the gap as small as possible, like the manual says, the shoes should almost touch the 2nd gear housing.
The shifting point is adjusted with both screws wih the springs around them.
I bet you lot get asked these sorts of questions all the time but it would be a very big help.
No problem.
Couple of other questions
. I can set the caster of course using the top spacer on the arms. Question is say if i shorten or lengthen the front wheelbase do i need to do anything on the caster to keep the same degree? Hope you know what i meen...
Yes, if you shorten the wheelbase by lets say 2mm, you should also move the upper arms 2mm back, to have the same caster angle as before.
On the rear suspension arms like the castor. If i shorten/lengthen the rear wheelbase do i need to the same adjustment on the top arm? Or again do i just adjust one thing and leave the other as it is? If so what effect would i see in putting more shims behind (shortening) the top arm?
Again, you need to make the same adjustment on the upper arms.
On the rear the arms will even start binding if you don't.
Now from my 10th electric touring car days, if i raise the outside link on the rear hubs say 0.5mm is that the same as lowering the inside link (giving more rear grip).
If I understand correctly, no.
The settings for the rear upper arms are used for changing "camber rise"
Something have no idea about. There are multiple mounting holes on the upper mount. I have it in the standard mount on the hub i have it in the upper hole too. If i were to move the upper body mount to the outside hole would there be a handling change and the same with the hub mounting... if i mounted it in the lower hole would there be a change in handling. Or am i getting to complicated and it's just for mounting the body at the right height (i got a Xceed Zytec).
Just play with it, and find out yourself...
The Zytek is best with the rear mounted as high as possible (that's what it is designed for, it is developed on the Serpent car)
Rear roll bar and front. Is there a way to adjust the tension of these? I've only ever used actual bars....
You can turn them.
Flat/soft means the most grip, rotated 90 degrees, means least grip.
If you lot can help me out in any way that'd be great. Just ran me Picco Evo3 Edo in and itching to get on track
Very nice engine!
Cheers, Chaz
Cheers, Martin