R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - RS5 Killed 5 of my plugs

12-18-2003, 05:07 PM

#16

Manticore

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A very good article for reference.

Quote:

Originally posted by dino.tw
Regarding broken bushing,most of this case is caused by the not proper break-in process. When the sleeve and piston still new,it's very tight. It will make the rod to take very big stress during breaking in. And make the bushing worn fast even break.

And as you know that there are too many different break-in ways wide-spreading around us. Some people say 10 tanks is engough,and some people say he need 2L of fuel to break-in his engine. Someone say just use 30% to break-in,someone say use 5% is best? Everyone think he is expert already and give strong suggestion to others on the net. But no one know who is right! There are too many information around us which may wrong. I don't know how you will treat your engine,that's why I usual suggest people to replace the conrod after break-in. It dosen't mean the conrod is not strong enough.

Some person ever ask me,why not make the P/S set not so tight?
Good question! I have tried,but people say this P/S set has fault. And this kind of P/S set will easy to lose compression if over-heat. Till now,people will use Nova's products as standard to judge other manufactory. That's why we have to use the same standard to produce engine.

You must treat your engine with care. Any high performance racing engine can turn at close to 40,000 rpm.(666 times up-down / each second ) Any failure at such a high rpm can cause damage and exemplifies why you need to regularly maintain your engine. And if there is a play,just replace with new parts. Of course we can produce a super lasting engine such as STS12,but we have to limit the max-rpm. You will not like it anymore. Want Ferrari or TOYOTA?

So,I usual suggest every racers that you need at least two engines. One for race another for practice. When one engine can't work proper,just replace with another fine engine. When you back home or have free time,take it apart to see if there is any worn part. Don't guess it is tuning problem only,and try to restart is again and again. It will make the engine damaged more serious.

A real fault engine will be damaged on the first tank. If you can run it for a while,that's mean the QC is ok. Please understand that all moving parts inside the engine are subject to wear, and that if a piston/liner has worn out then likely the end/con-rod has also worn. When these parts are eventually in need of replacement, they are readily available and have a big play. If an engine has been broken, check to see if all of the other moving parts are still in good shape. If you only replace one part and leave other worn parts in place, it is possible that you will soon have another failure. That's why many expert will suggest newbie not to repair your engine just buy new one. Because they never know if there is any other worn part in your engine.

By the way,fuel is another problem. There are too many different brands of fuels around us. I suggest customers on the Instruction Manual that ...The choice of fuel is very important, it should contain a minimum of 10% castor and/or synthetic oil. Regarding the percentage of nitro: more nitro content (higher %) will provide more explosive force and more horsepower from your engine, but it will also shorten the engine?fs life. For average use we recommend 15~25% nitro fuels.

A CHAMPION fuel may not good for everyone. Some fuel only has 8% lubrication even less. Yes,it may make your engine more fast but also wearing fast. So before you choice fuel,you have to know what you want? Faster or lasting?

Above suggestion is writed to all buddies here,sorry for my poor english...
Sincerely,

Great job Dino !

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