Originally Posted by
maxg123456
The alu caster blocks are used by quite a few top drivers actually, as the stock hard ones are too brittle and the TA05IFS soft ones have a lot of slack. I would recomened them over plastic. There is such little play and they dont bend.
Im pretty shocked your car was 'dialed'. Then again, I have been driving xrays a long time and they are def more dialed out the box on carpet.
The downstops are pretty much a must on touring cars. If you use no downtravel, the droop will be very high, so the car will transfer too much weight on and off throttle. Then again, it works ok outdoors without downstops.
It depends where you are running this car in terms of how dialled it is. Almost all touring cars are dialled outdoors to me.
Downstops= do you mean droop? Of course i have droop settings, i think I was around 2mm in the front at 4 in the rear.
When someone says downstops== to me, that is an external spacer on the shock, limiting the amount of down travel the shock has. Or in the case of the JRXS, it is the hole we never use on the arm that limits down travel.
Droop is essential.
Dialed to me= easy to drive and consistent. It was super easy to drive, and it was very consistent. This is one thing i will not miss from Losi. Once i started running the production JRXS-R (well, pre pro, as i never actually did get a production kit) it seemed it was a toss up= easy to drive and slow, or really fast and inconsistent.
this car was a dream come true. Then again, it was only the first day. Could be a nightmare this sunday
aluminum casters= I was considering running the more firm casters i got from Tamiya.. only because i can imagine what is happening to them in a turn will all of the stress a caster block has. On my foam car, maybe ill look into the aluminum. We will see how the hard plastics hold up.
@ALB= yep, one foam, one rubber. Foam car will be used for RCGT if we can get it off the ground. Get off the bench and into the game. Fastcats this sunday, the NEW Gate next sunday.
KB