Originally Posted by
Phil C
Hi Cosmo,
For me the rear end felt loose coming out of corners, so first I stood up the rear shock from position 4 to position 5. This helped a lot, but I still needed a little more so I tried a Jadd racing 3.5 degree rear toe block which really planted the rear end.
To help the car generate more traction (outdoor asphalt), I also cut the middle of the rear deck so its 2 piece and cut a line down the centre of the TC spec topdeck so that its split up untill the steering post mount. This made the car feel very similar, flex wise, to the prototype 1 piece topdeck we are running at the moment.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
Very interesting. As my main problem with the kit setup was a rear loose end coming out of corners (and attempting to overtake the front end). I'm still trying different variations on the Hara RROC setup (on a lo-med grip outdoor asphalt track).
Coincidently, going from 4 to 5 could apply to the shock tower or arm position (both make the shock more upright) - which one did you mean ?
? If its the lower arm then there is less leverage, more rear roll, and more rear grip (makes sense). If its the tower, then the shock becomes less progressive and a bit "harder" (dont see how this would give more rear grip, therefore makes less sense to me), OR there is a completely different explanation.
Can you please order the changes from most, to least, sensitive ?
? I dont have a feel for which changes have the most effect.
Or is it pretty much in the order that you described.
That is, Rear shock position, Rear pivot block angle, Cut middle deck, Cut top deck
I have been playing with the cut middle deck, but have not heard about the cut top deck change before - interesting. There does not seem much to cut on the top deck, basically the small section centered on the belt tensioner post. If so, what do you do with the belt tensioner post (or can it sit over the "slit") ?
?
Greatly appreciate your thoughts
