Originally posted by Gazza_D
Herm, ran on polished wooden floor yesterday....and brought home the chocolate
You wont believe the set up though...shouldnt really work but it did.
Running the Web special with Pal A spec conversion.
Front: shock mount 3 holes in at the top outer hole bottom, 40 wt oil hpi piston #2 Yoke bladder caps and Rayspeed red springs.
Xenon front hub with camber links in the middle hole inboard, 0.5 degree toe out, 1.5 degree camber. Droop set at 4 (outside bottom edge of arm)
Rear: shock mount 3 holes in again up top, outer hole at the bottom, 40 wt oil, hpi #2 and rayspeed white spring, bladders up top too. Xenon rear hub camber link in middle hole again, 2.5 degree toe in, 1.5 degrees camber, droop set at 3.
front diff set tight, rear normal, yellow mini pins all round, tried 20 mm pins first but too twitchy at the rear, 26 mm much better, used 26mm inch up in the end with schumacher blue foam insert, car changed direction so much better and had loads of traction too. Pins were quite worn (20+ runs on carpet) but worked so much better than new ones, used GP3300 cells to get the weight uo as was already running 115 gms onboard, total weight 1502 including transponder!!!!!!!! Oh run a protorom vectra too with a std rear wing.
See what I mean, shouldnt work but sure did and won with ease in the end
How does that differ from what you run??????
Doesn't actually sound too different from what I'm running, same direction anyway. Don't know my exact numbers, but I'm running a bucket load of rear toe in and quite a lot fo rear camber too, lets just say, the rear practicly always follows the front around the track
Which allows quite a lot of steering, the front settings are about 1.5 toe out and 1.8 camber (I think) Xenon hubs all round and same link positions, but one alloy spacer on the rear hubs (may try it without) Droop is basicly as far as the arms can go, the screws are all the way up. Using kit pistons with yoke 250 oil, yoke bladders all round too. Front shocks are on the inner holes at the bottom and one in from center at the top. Rears are central at the top and one in at the bottom.
Tyres are narrows at the moment, I think they give just a touch more cornering grip but are more temperamental about the setup and also worse when you run even a little off line where there's more dust.
Tyres are confusing me at this minute, after yesterday there seems to be quite a few combinations that work, lots that don't work though. Wides can be just as fast as narrows at the right time and can be more forgiving, new tyres never seem to work I think. I've seen some weirdly good grip from practicly bald narrows with pretty hard rubber insirts
My narrows have had less than two weeks use and they're getting fairly bald, far too much wear for my liking, but hopefully I can get them working when bald too......