Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul

syndr0me - They make aluminum spacers don't they??...lol..

Radial Ackerman:

Pos. #1 St. Block Inside Wheel degree vs. Outside Wheel Degree

21mm Length 5degree 10degree 15degree 20degree 25degree

9mm Insert 4.72 8.93 12.62 15.81 18.48
10mm Insert 4.71 8.87 12.51 15.62 18.22
11mm Insert 4.69 8.81 12.39 15.43 17.94
12mm Insert 4.67 8.75 12.26 15.22 17.65

22.5mm Length

9mm Insert 4.76 9.07 12.93 16.32 19.21
10mm Insert 4.75 9.03 12.83 16.16 18.98
11mm Insert 4.74 8.98 12.73 15.99 18.74
12mm Insert 4.72 8.92 12.62 15.81 18.49

24mm Length

9mm Insert 4.8 9.21 13.21 16.78 19.89
10mm Insert 4.79 9.17 13.13 16.64 19.69
11mm Insert 4.78 9.13 13.04 16.5 19.48
12mm Insert 4.77 9.08 12.95 16.35 19.26

This is generated using a set wheel base - adjusting wheel base/hinge pin sweep can adjust these #'s. Also, this is generated using 0 toe in/out. This is to generate different ackerman curves.

Generally, lower initial ackerman (closer # values) generate more initial steering and can make the car loose in the center of the corner/exit. Be warned though that at times it can overheat the tires and cause a mid/late race understeer.

Higher initial ackerman makes the car easier to drive, and more balanced through the run. Sometimes though, if you use too much ackerman you will just have slow lap times and a lazy/understeering car. So far, I've prefered the shorter bell crank (21mm) with 9-10 for the ackerman insert as it gives good initial steering and good low speed steering without over heating the front tires so much. Also, this combination is quite close to the ackerman data generated from the 416 I was able to guess some dimensions off of....

I can't really make this chart look right on here... Sorry guys...