Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

Shock position is a very interesting thing. Something I have been testing lately is how shock position changes tend to act differently when using a spool on asphalt. I have found that when the shocks are layed down a lot in the rear, in certain conditions, will actually free up the car through the middle of the corner and on power. When I stood the shocks up from that point, the car created more forward grip, but was a little more edgy.

As a general statement, what the xray book says is correct. But is it correct all the time? Not always. Sometimes you'll just have to try something, and forget what setup books say. I've had a lot of problems with that lately, but I'm starting to get used to it now LMAO.

Steering geometry is something I haven't messed with a whole lot on this car because I've liked the way it felt with 4mm on the center bell crank. Typically if you went to 2mm on the center bell crank, it will smooth steering out initially, but give a little more steering in the middle of the corner. This is because of the angle in the steering links. The straighter they are, the more aggressive the car will be initially, then smooth out through the rest of the corner. It can get more complicated though. It also depends on how much arm sweep you are running, and your wheelbase setting.

As a general statement, the more angled the steering links are, the smoother the car is initially, and can create a little more steering in the middle and exit of the corner. The straighter the links are, the more aggressive the car is right off center. If it feels a little too... "twitchy" you can remove some shims from the center bellcrank on our car. Different cars can react differently to this, and it all depends how the steering geometry is setup. The way I'm describing it here is what I have found on the cyclone, so it may or may not be applicable to other cars.

Hope that helps!

-Korey