Originally Posted by
pakk
is the NW set the same in each speedo? Even if they aren't, maybe you should try increasing the NW on the WGT to a rediculous amount just to see if that is the issue. I maybe mistaken, but I remember reading the 3pk needs more NW than most radios.
--pakk
Yeah, that is set correctly. I am running a NW of 30 on both ESCs. I think I tried 15, 30, and 40... no difference.
Originally Posted by
oldrcr
Hi Cpt.,
didn't realize you were having this problem today, I was running at FW. I am running the RS's with 1s lipo in both 1/12th and WGT, didn't run today as I was helping Jake get his WGT running properly and I only ran 13.5 TC. Catch up with me and we can figure out what's up. Sounds like it could be booster not getting proper power to the speedo electronics, so it act this way, kills motor output, because the RS prioritizes power to receiver first when voltage gets below the threshold it sees going into the electronics. Its a safeguard. Anyway, if your booster has a bad connection or not working properly, (is it the Novak Smartboost? I had a problem with the smartboost as it has a slightly high cutoff voltage which can kick in under high motor load near end of run on 1s lipo pack or if it is a new pack, they take a few runs to break-in it seems). This can also happen if a receiver pack gets low, if you run that instead of a booster, this can also cause this safeguard to kick in.
The low voltage safeguard sounds like your issue maybe. Did your transponder work, was the light on it bright?
-Alex
Yes, and thanks Alex. It made for a ridiculous time. Every time my race came up, I had to “model reset”, then get all my trims set just to get out onto the track before the buzzer. 90% of the time my steering wasn’t exact and I was counter correcting the entire race, or pulling over DURING the race. Just for reference, All I basically do is set steering trim, epa down to about 70 (wgt has too much steering), and reverse throttle and steering. (Very vanilla). As soon as I power cycle the car…. Back to square one… I have to model reset.
If it were the booster, (yes, it’s a novak booser) wouldn’t the problem appear all the time? As soon as I model reset, the esc does it power-up cycle and the car drives just fine for the entire race.
I don’t think voltage cutoff is what I am seeing as the whole system runs strong as soon as I model reset. Transponder works, steering is fast, and the car is fast (other than my driving). Everything is wired up just great! What’s funny…. When building the car, it worked perfectly at my house. I powered it up and down numerous times at home when getting it running. It didn’t start until I brought it to the track last week.
Originally Posted by
corallyman
Cap't,
My suggestion to you is to look at your throttle settings on your radio. You just change profiles within your transmitter. Sometimes the default settings could be different from what you put on the working TC profile
Steve
Thanks steve… Ill take a closer look. What throttle setting would I be looking for? A model reset set’s them all to 100% I think… all I do is bring down my steering EPAs to about 70, and im off and running. Power cycle the car, and boom.. errors on the ESC. Iv never had this much trouble before with electronics on an RC. Very frustrating!