How many of these cars do you have.
By just looking at the car layout I have to imagine the balance is excellent.
How free is the drive train with the 3 belt setup on your new car? My last 3 belt car was the FSR Bullet and I had to spend hours on the driveline to get the car somewhat free.
I have 6...4 are still new in box. I ran for Schumacher but my oversea business is for TM. I used this one (last sat, virgin run) for 17.5 rubber, then if I want to...I can open another one up and use it for RCGT. Then, if I want to, I can have Jonny Sockco to help me out and get another one for USVTA and 13.5...then another one for 13.5 foam. Already got one used from last year IIC mod foam....
You didn't asked me about how many Nitro TM G4RS I have right...? LOL
After all the electronics layout (my stuff are not some compact afterall)...it is not really like left to right balanced (on the Hudy PIN balancer) it is the "FEEL" that the car does not rotate (left to right) as AGGRESSIVE compare to my Mi3.5...that also made the car understeer alittle, but on the high speed track (ie, less turns track)...the car is flying. It was my 1st run and the track is not a typical aggressive track that most ppl will run, so it is not a fair way to describe the car...but at least, I don't hate the car, at least, not as bad as when I was building it (try to get the motor fit is a nightmare especailly using a DUO...thats why I ended up using a Novak and use Orion 3800 instead of dealing with 5000 type LIPO problem)
After taking advise from Jonny Sockco...my E4RS is WAY free(er) then the stock setup...at least, the car roll with alittle push even with Novak Motor on it....my FOAM car with K-Factory low friction belt are tight...but it is because it need to be tight (mod carpet foam). But compare to my MI3.5, this E4RS is like 80% as free compare to my Mi3.5 with traditional 2 belts design.
I don't use front belt tensioner...almost no tension at rear...side belt, using stock long belt, bearing pulley almost all the way down...you have to spend time to check everything on the car. On my case, the TM spool (solid one, not the multi-diff one) is OK without using any spacer in front of the bearing, but the 1-way/spool multi-diff is a nightmare, super tight to fit into the bulkhead, ended up grinding some alum off the diff body in order to get that free up. The original DIFF is the best thing, and what I did is removed all the balls inside, placed Tamiya ANTI WEAR grease, used my old business card and cutted 2 circle sheet and placed them within (without the diff ball)...adjust the tightness, then I got a "limited slip" kinda spool. Work great last SAT without any wear on the outdrive (even it is a plastic one, which I was worry about before).
By looking at the quality of the TM spool and multi-diff, I think they are just OK...looks very pretty but not so sure about their duribility, especailly for outdoor running 13.5 and up. I would keep them for indoor carpet with 13.5 and lower.
You should stock up some LONG ball stud, I am limited my roll center setting because the stock one are not long enough for me to put 3mm spacer below or I don't have enough thread to the bulkhead....
There was 1 issue...side belt got bounced up, after the race, it ended up above the bearing tensioner instead of below the bearing tensioner, indicated I need more tension OR need a big washer mod onto the outside of the tensioner to prevent belt flipped to above bearing tensioner.
This SAT and SUN will do another racing, 2 different tracks and will see I can run 17.5 along with the 13.5 cars.