Originally posted by Boomer
Scary thought, ain't it? Yep, that's me.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
so...do you guys remove the shocks when adjusting droop ? which is correct ? adjust the droop with shock or without shock ? adjust the droop with tires or without tires ? adjust the droop with tires on the ground or not ??
(answer please base on kyosho v-one rr-my car)
