FYI: Info from Bruce

Rev.3
Chassis. Even though your chassis comes partially assembled, you should take it apart so you can properly file the battery slots and drill/countersink your chassis for your servo. You should only file the chassis/battery tray so the cells sit flush with the bottom of the chassis. They should never hang below the chassis.


Suspension. Although not necessary, it is beneficial to polish all the metal suspension balls and front kingpins. This is easily accomplished by chucking up a 4-40 tie rod into your Dremel or hand drill and thread the balls on. Then using a quality metal polish, spin them in a clean rag. The kingpins can be chucked up by themselves doing each end individually. Note: The Front Suspensions Arms are right and left pieces. When mounted flat on your Rev.3 chassis with the front end pointing away from you. The upper arms’ kingpin bulges should face forward.


VCS Shock. Assemble the VCS shock according to the included instructions. We recommended 80 wt. Shock fluid with the heavy silver spring to start. Generally, the stiffer the center spring the more steering your Rev.3 will have.


Ride Height. Should be level or slightly nose high.


Caster. You should start with a 2-degree caster shim under each suspension arm. More caster will give the car less “cut”, but more steering exiting the corner. Less caster will do the opposite.


Toe. Toe in will make the car easy to drive and slightly less responsive. Toe out will give the car more “cut” going into the corner but less strait line stability.


Side Links. Thread the four rod ends onto the two adjustable turnbuckles, leaving just under 1 inch of the turnbuckle showing between the plastic rod ends. Now, starting with either side snap on one of the side links. Note: It’s a good idea to have the turnbuckle aligned so that tighter/shorter is in towards the chassis and looser/longer is away from the chassis. Next, you can thread in the two 2/56 screws into the side link you have installed. Note: These screws are only to prevent the links from popping off. They are NOT to be tightened around the balls snugly; this will cause serious binding in the rear suspension. There should be a large gap between the ends of the adjustable rod ends when properly set. After you have one side link installed, lay your chassis on a flat table with a piece of white notebook paper underneath it. Now by adjusting your turnbuckle make the gap between the chassis and the lower pod plate equal on both sides of the center pivot socket. Once you have the link properly adjusted you can snap on the other side link. Once again, you can thread in the 2-56 adjuster screws so the link won’t pop off while adjusting it. To adjust the 2nd link take the chassis in your left hand and with your right hand wiggle the lower pod plate side to side. It will probably “click” or have a “bound up” feel when doing this. Slowly adjust the 2nd link in either direction. Note: Adjustments to the turnbuckle should be no more than 1/16 of a full turn at a time. After giving the turnbuckle a small adjustment feel the side to side movement again. Did it get better or worse? If it got better go in the same direction again, if it got worse go in the opposite direction. Repeat these steps until the side to side and the fore & aft movements are free. If a link is too long the side to side movement will “click”, if too short it will feel “bound up”. Note: Never re-adjust the 1st link when trying to free up the rear end. The 1st link is always correct if you initially adjusted it properly.


Damper Tubes. You must trim your twin damper tubes to fit you Rev.3 chassis. To do this pull the male/female damper pieces apart. Now with a very sharp hobby knife trim each end as follows. The female should be trimmed to 2 1/8 inches end to end. The male side should be trimmed to 2 inches. Make sure to remove any burs. Losi soft, medium, and hard Hydra Drive fluids all work well in the damper tubes.


Servo Mounting. The servo should be mounted so that the front of the servo case is equal with the rear of the suspension arm mount. The off-set of the servo should be to the passenger side of the chassis. Use a small Kimbrough servo saver. Mount the tie-rod ends to the front of the servo saver in the upper most holes. This will give the best Ackerman angle for your Rev.3.

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Here is our most recent set-up.

Front End:
Tires-Start with Purple, if you feel the car is pushing, go to TRC Magentas or JACO 35's if you can get them. For club racing purples usually do the trick, but sometimes the softer fronts are a must with how fast batts and motors are today. Start at 1.78"
Springs-We usually run .20's. If the track has a lot of 180's you might drop down to .18's. Generally run as soft as you can without the car "over rotating" leaving a turn. If the track has lots of high speed sweepers we'll go up to .22's. I don't think we've ever used .16 or .24's.
Polish your front kingpins. They get grungy suprisingly quick. Keep an eye on them. A sticky front kingpin will make a car handle like crap. When you only have 3/16 inch of travel, it better be smooth.
2 degrees toe-out. This usually gives the car a nice balance, with enough "cut" into the corner. If the car "cuts" too much, go to zero toe.
Make sure you mount your tie-rods to the upper and outer holes on your Kimbrough servo saver. This is very important for the correct Ackerman angles. Also make sure your servo is centered and mounted right up to the back of the passenger side suspension arm.
Depending on which rims you use, you might have to shave some plastic off of your outer ball cups so they don't bind under max. steering throw.
We almost always stick with 2 degrees of caster.= 1 shim.
Back:
Generally we run that Batt. in the "back" position, but this really depends on the track and what you personally like. When the battery is in the back of the car, it gives you more traction, and is usually easier to drive. With the battery moved forward, the car rotates 180's better and has a little more "cut" but less overall steering. This is a little confusing, because most people think that more weight up front equals more steering. In reality, when the battery is in the back position, it allows for more weight transfer which actually gives the car more overall steering. You just have to wait that split second for the weight to transfer to get the additional steering. Hence, why batteries up front give you more cut but less total steering.
Side springs.-Orange or Blue most of the time, and then white if you need a little more cut, or if the car feels lazy going through cut-backs. Never over-preload the side springs. Crank them down just enough to tweak the car. Besides bound up links, this is the largest mistake I see done to Rev.3's. It's very important that the springs "work", which allows the chassis' weight to transfer which gives you steering and traction.
Shock-We usually run Asc. 80wt. shock fluid with our Black spring. If you need more traction, or your track is really bumpy we'll go down as far as 30 wt. and the Asc. blue spring. Generally, if you drop your shock fluid you should drop your spring also.
Damper Tubes-We use Losi light, medium, and heavy fluids. With how fast today's cars are, we usually run light. It lets the car "return" to center quicker. If the track is really large with high speed sweepers we might go to medium or heavy. Your damper tubes should be adjusted in conjunction with your side springs. Put "together" you have a shock, so much like your center shock, when you go heavier on the sides, you can increase you tubes damping.
Tires-Jaco or Trc Grey rears. Start at 1.90
Droop-Your shock length controls how much droop you have(i.e..-how far past horizontal your rear pod hangs in relation to your chassis). Generally we run about 2 or 3 degrees. Again, if your track is really bumpy, you can back the ball cups off your shock to lengthen it and give your car a little more droop. Never go more than 5 degrees(the car will unload too much going into tight turns).
Stock gearing-With today's motors(stock) and batteries we generally run 27-30/100 or 28-31/104. If your track is really tight you would want to be down around 27. Don't gear for run time, gear for lap times. Most of the time we run a smaller pinion than we think we should. It just gets the infield done that much quicker.
Links-MAKE SURE THEY ARE FREE AND STRAIGHT!!!!! This is by far the most important part of your Rev.3. If your links aren't perfect the rest of your preparation is useless. The instruction pamphlet has a good description on how to adjust them correctly. During a race day, check your links after any big accident or if the car just feels inconsistent. To check them during a race day. 1)remove batteries, 2)remove top plate(over motor), 3)take out motor, 4)remove tweak plate(unscrew the two pan heads that go through the main chassis. Now you can feel them for binding/smoothness. It's very important that the motor is removed. Because of it's weight it doesn't let you "feel" the movement of the rear assembly. If they feel bound, remove one front screw for one link side, adjust the opposite link so the graphite "gap" is even, reinstall the screw you removed, and adjust that link until the links are free again.
Note: It is necessary to remove the motor top plate to put the motor in and out of your Rev.3. Our chassis has the motor over 20 thousandths compared to an ASC 12L. Today's motors are much heavier than when the 12L was designed. When drawing the Rev.3 I weighed and measured the newer style motors and centered them within our rear pod. Some people force the motor through the bottom of the car. I think it's pretty easy just to remove the 3 button heads and not force anything.
We use Paragon tire traction and we dope 3/4 front and full rear. Usually we put it on for about 15 minutes, and try to be wiping it off just as you are getting ready to run.