this works with the LRP Q-comp and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire form the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers do. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure

see ASK JOSH CYRUL forum in trinity tech talk forum he does it same way as mentioned above (red wire left in and not use switch on ESC)