Here you go bro -

GO engine breakin. NB Brian is talking the long LSN settings here on the Gen 4 motor. Set your needles both flush (factory setting for Gen 5) but the rest of the procedure is the same, just tune according to the newer Gen 5 specs listed by Massive Mods in the second quote.

"there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.

Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.

Installing the engine.

After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.

Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.

Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb

Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.

If i can help with anything that wasn't asked let me know or just give me a ring.
__________________
Brian Carey
Pro Twister Mods
[email protected]"



Gen 5 Tuning

"Re The Go Carb

id say 80 % of the problems reported about the carb are due to user error. the other 20% may have resulted in past faults that have long been rectified , im talking about 12 months ago. .. The new carb with long LSN tunes differently to traditional carbs. Personally i like the new carb and Long LSN , I have made sure that people know about how to tune them and they are getting excellent results and major tank time.



Buggy average 11.2 mins 0801 pipe 6.5 mm restrictor epa 65% .4 shim
Truggy average 12.5 mins

The New carb is designed to be very simple once you understand how it works.

Tune it from the LSN only till you get 3/4 of the rev range right

then fine tune the HSN ( you are within 1/4 turn from performance tune )

Simple

Also simple to reference stock settings - Flush HSN Flush LSN"

By Mark from Massive Mods.



Hope this helps rearview - nice avatar by the way