Clev. Set Up!
Hello everyone, sorry for the long delay in my post. I have done a lot of testing thanks to Big L. This car has a very big sweet spot. You can run the car with multiple set ups and it will drive like a cadillac. Standard issue on the mod ride is a .075 or spring steel. Use the .007 shims to controll your roll and rotation. By rasing the pivot ball equally you will stop chassis roll just like your touring car. By angling the the pivots (front higher) this will make the intial steering more aggressive and will rotate more. Clev. I ran .007 in the rear and .014 in the front. For damping. I prefer the Corally red syrup it last longer and takes less also there are 3 visc. I actually found the .075/spring steel was the most consistant and easy to drive. With this t-bar use 25-35 wt. oil grn or silv center spring. I actaully turned faster laps locally with the .060 and red side springs but it was not as consistant. I will work with it more at the birds under high bite. Close attention has to be given to the the damper tubes when using the springs. Release the tweak screws on the t-bar and adjust the tubes to have very little preload and equall preload. You will have to trim the ball ends about 1mm. You should be abel to look at the bottom of the lower pod plate and set it flush on both sides to the chassis. If it needs adj. simply cut the ball end or unscrew one. Now go back and set your preload on the t-bar tweak screws to stay touching at full travel. Here is a little tip from a former WC. Take ( with saftey glasses on) a couple of old xacto nife blades and break off the ends( the part that goes in the handle), dremel them straight. Glue them under your tweak screws to the graphite chassis. This will give you a more positive tweak setting and save your graphite. Use the green or silver center spring but with 30 - 40 wt. Stock racers might want to try a heavier center spring witht the softer t-bar setup. Both set ups I prefer 1 to 1.5 mm of droop in the rear and the front shock mount is 21 mm from the chassis to the center of the pivot ball (stnd associated mount with a med ball studd). I have been using the old associated front end with the 10deg. front blocks, full caster, .018 with .1 or .2 mm of droop I really like .1, using the heavy Corally syrup with the KSG grooved pivot balls for damping. It is very important to set the droop with OUT the damping fluid applied. Runing 1 to 1.5 deg. of camber and 1 to 1.5 deg. of tow out. I also made a graphite brace that has a little free play to flex out so the front end is braced and should not tweak. Tire Size Fronts 42mm rears 43 on Parma's. Combinations I recomend Double pink fronts or Parma Mag. Glue the outside. Rears Yellow or Mag. Corall on Parma's. Glue the bead. Stock racers might want to try other fronts. 3.5 mm on the ride height. Hopefully this helps everyone. I am working on drawings for new performance enhancement products for the current car and invisioning an updated more stylish looking components. Best of luck to everyone remeber if you cant run it full throttle then leave it on the trailer. LOL
TTYL CD RACING USA IFMAR WORLD CHAMPIONS