Originally Posted by
MHarrison
In regards to the rear end issue.
Forgive me for not knowing the ( a,b ,c ) positioning of the rear upper camber links.
I worked with this same problem with Paolo Morganti From Serpent USA. a few weeks ago,asking his opinion of course.
His advise was to make the upper camber link short and down. Furthest down position, but furthest to the outside . And I also added 2mm of shims under the outside of the link.
And also to lower the rear roll center all the way down. .
I ran my REAR DROOP @ 4
Rear camber @ 3
Rear toe @ 2
Rear Diff 20,000K diff
All this With a Solid axle in the front.
You may want to soften your clutch just a little ,This also Can help Alot.
Now if it tightens the car up so much your not rotating enough, Go back up to the 30,000K diff. This is what I had to do for the main.
Hope this helps.
Anytime you shorten or angle a camber link downward toward the bulkhead, you remove traction. Adding shims under link on the rear hub will enhance the effect while cornering. The car in question does not have enought rear side bite. The car appears to have alot of initial steering because the rear end is too loose(lack of side bite / lateral weight transfer) and is transferring too much weight forward. Reducing the rear droop, as GMartinez suggested would fix the excessive forward weight transfer issue. Making the rear camber link more level and longer (where it connects to the bulkhead) would be the direction to go in. Also, standing up the rear shocks will help keep the rear arms on the ground for more grip. Setting the camber, so that, the tires wear more even will also increase rear traction. You shouldn't need more than 3 degrees rear toe to produce the traction required. I would suggest 10,000 to 20,000 wt diff lube (Kyosho brand, of course
) in the rear diff.
The last word on the subject is to go out and try these things for yourself and see what
really works for your particular situation and what doesn't. No two tracks are the same - as are the drivers using them. In fact, the track you always race at, is never the same from race to race. So, just keep wrenching!
