Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

I would suggest the normal setup that everyone else uses. It's better overall in my opinion... it works in a wider variety of conditions. Especially in your case since you are in a low traction condition. It will make the rear end react faster to direction changes and be a little more "locked in" overall.

I just saw your on power steering question as well from a little while ago. I would try and tighten your front droop screws just a tiny bit, that will prevent weight form jacking to the back of the car when you're on the throttle. From there maybe go a little thicker on the front shock oil. Usually this helps with high speed steering, and also slows weight transfer to the rear of the car. You can always try a little more front arm sweep too. So if you have a 2.0 deg toe block up front, try a 2.5 deg, usually I noticed it does more in lower speed corners, but it's with a shot.

Also try a tiny bit of antidive, about .5mm. This is when the front toe block is slightly lower than the supension block in the front. So... the front hinge pins will point slightly down towards the front part of the car. Usually this will increase steering under braking, and also when you start to accellerate through the corner. It tends to numb "off power" steering a bit though, so keep that in mind.

A less conventional solution (for rubber tires on asphalt) that I tend to do a lot in carpet racing on foam tires is just add more caster. The typical norm is to always run 4 deg caster blocks, but you might even just want to try 6 deg blocks as well. It will smooth out corner entry a tiny bit, but make the car carve the rest of the corner really well.

Hope that helps CS!

-Korey