R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Tamiya DF-03 type
View Single Post
Old 09-02-2008, 03:27 PM
  #88  
pgeldz
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 563
Default

Originally Posted by tom_chang79
I'm not really sure how small of a pinion will the motor mount accomodate for an 80T pinion. You'd have to experiment with it to let us know!

For a hot motor like the 5700Kv, I'd definitely would keep the final drive ratio to something between 12 and 14...
I definitely will. What would the final drive ratio befor something like the 4600Kv motor?

To answer your earlier question, I think the stock front bumper is more then capable of holding the two front hinge halves for the aluminum front lower gear box. What you can do for now is use the stock front lower gear box and have the aluminum one on order. Then swap it out if it ever breaks...
That's a good idea. I think I'm going to use the T-bones bumpers though instead and skip the GMP unit (unless I end up breaking it more than once). I think those T-Bones bumper will help take the load off those other parts quite a bit. We shall see, he he he.


Regarding your question about shocks, I wasn't too sure about what kind of oil the kit comes with. It's just a yellow bottle. I've read somewhere that it's equivalent to a 50W oil, but it sure doesn't look like it...
Yeah, it's like 40w I think. But you are right, it does look very thin.

I stuck 45W in the front and 30W in the rear. Jimmy wrote that it felt a little bouncy, but he might be using the 3-hole pistons that comes with the regular DF-03 kits. Since we have the MS kits, there are a whole set of new pistons that comes with the DF-03 aluminum shock kits. I used the two-hole "white" pistons instead of the "black" ones off the parts tree. The "white" pistons felt more quality and I think they were really meant for the aluminum shocks...

For the weight, it will again, depend on your track condition. But it does feel a little more bouncier then my AE shocks... I'll probably end up getting some AE/Losi 50W oil to put in the front with 40W for the rear. I usually like to bias the front with something a bit stiffer...

But remember, the instantaneous "shock" that the absorbers can take before chassis bottoming out is a function of the sum of the weight of the oil and the springs.
Hmm, Jimmy did use the regular version of the shocks, and you used the Aluminum ones with the white 2 hole pistions and still thought it was a little bouncy. The manual says to use 2 hole on the front, and 3 hole on the rear, using the smaller white pistions.

I also wanted to set up the front slightly stiffer than the rear. So armed with that info, I may use the 1 hole pistion in the front, and 2 hole out back, using the same oil all around, something heavier than the kit stuff, say, the Tamiya medium pack, using the middle one out of that three pack.

For LiPos rubbing on the shaft, I'm not really sure. You might want to PM Jimmy on oople. I don't use LiPos, and actually had to buy some stick packs just so it'll fit inside the battery bay of the 3Racing chassis...
I found a solution for that actually. Kawada connecters. They have a bullet banna connector that fits the battery, and then they have this screw in part that has a hole on the end. I'll screw the set together, then solder it so it doesn't come loose, and then fit the wire through the hole which is perpendicular. Tha'll it'll keep it nice and low and flat, and should fit right under the shaft without worrry of rubbing.

Man, I'm getting so excited can't you tell! I'm so hooked on offroad right now!

The only thing I'm a little bummed about is that my Futaba 2.4ghz receiver needs a 6V BEC, and the Mamba only puts out 5V. So I would have to use my old 2 channel radio, or buy the Castle Creations adjustable BEC and wire it in (really didn't want to do that becaue they make you buy additional stuff to be able to actually adjust it, and it comes from teh factory at 5v, pretty silly, since their controller is already at 5v.)

Argghh! What to do what to do.



- Paulie
pgeldz is offline