Here are some pics of the Hyperdrive Products that came in.
Pic one shows the bearing removal and intallation tool in removal mode. I tapped the bearing out by holding the endbell in the palm of my hand. The punch protrudes from the edge a bit. Or use a couple of blocks like in the photo. The tool is made of black oxide coated steel.
The small ring at left slides on the tool and converts it to installation mode. The installation is guided by the nice pilot shown under the endbell in photo two. Use a small hammer. Use a thin coat of high temperature locktite on the outer race of the bearings. Our motors, expecially 3.5's, get very hot in this area.
The replacement
bearing part#, I showed above, has sufficient RPM capability to withstand 3.5 use without exploding the cage. This is important. Exploding the cage may stall the motor and fry the electronics. This good yellow rubber seal bearing is not the one in the photo.
The third photo shows the Hyperdrive Tire Truing Arbor. Note that the red #8 x 32 TPI screw that most of us use to install the front suspension is quite a bit smaller than the tools threaded shaft. I was able to hold BSR, Jaco knurl out, and GRP with the knurled part of the knob inwards. The shoulder on which the wheels seat was a very good fit to the wheels. So far it is a highly reccommend on both tools.
John
After use report
The arbor worked well. I used an Aluminum X-acto knife whose handle is 8m to drive the arbor with the 3-jaw chuck of my lathe. The arbor alone ran very true. I trued a couple of Jaco rears. I noticed on both wheels that I could get better radial and axial runnout (tested by eye) with the knurled part of the locking knob in rather than out. Apparently the mild taper and slightly loose fit of the knob on the aluminum threads was forcing the wheel out of true. I turned it around like you would for GRP and wobble was much reduced.
If I were redesigning the tool I would put a cylindrical section on the the threaded pilot near the wheel seats to guide the knurled knob on center and maybe use a ball section instead of a mild taper to touch the wheel. This would act more like the screws we use to hold the wheel on the car. I did sand in a radius to the knurled end of the tool.
Bearing installation went very well and was very fast.
I added this red text later.
John