R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Go-Tech Engines Thread
View Single Post
Old 07-20-2008 | 01:16 PM
  #3852  
Dasupacat1's Avatar
Dasupacat1
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,372
From: Fort Wayne, IN
Default

Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Is it me or was my 08' 3 port race engine a pain in the ass to break in. 1st thru 2nd tank could not get it to idle without igniter on it. Every time I took it off it would shut off. I had hs needle flush and lsn about a turn in. Seemed if I took igniter off and rev to 1/4 throttle it would bog and shut off. I tried letting it idle with and without igniter and rich bof out. I put a new plug in thinking I blew the orig P3 I put in , but the same thing. I ended up putting the old plug back. Finally after 2 frustrating tanks I went to settings in instructions and threw it on ground and 1/4 throttled it around. It actually kept going. I kept thinking it was gonna bog, but it didn't. The lsn is so sensitive. I got a full tank this way and did tank 4 the same way. It held idle!
I have the old style on the way, but and afraid to touch it. I'm gonna keep the settings this way it is finish breaking in.
Anybody have a starting point for the "old style" needle if I decide to switch it?
Originally Posted by redthumper9
I started the break-in on my new 5pt. turbo today. I added the shim that came with the engine, runinng on 30%, using a p3 plug and a 0801 pipe. I am using the break in method discussed here on page 78. Man is this engine tight! Anyway.....it will not idle consistently unless the igniter is on. If I remove it, within 20 secs to a minute, it stalls. The temps are where they need to be (230-250). Any ideas????? I suffered through two tanks idling (having to restart alot), but now am ready to start putting it down and running and it just stalls out.
I had the same problem. Ran 3 more tanks yesterday and it idles fine now. I think my problem was it was too fat on both ends.
Dasupacat1 is offline