Originally Posted by
mtveten
The yellow clutch shoe is the only option part worth buying, other than that just the std tuning items such as springs, oils and maybe the one-way(depending on the tracks you race at) are needed.
Mark
Thankyou Mark for that. I know it's a good car. I just wonder how much people have done to the car, themselves to make it so?...Thanks again.
Originally Posted by
HulkNT1
Do not worry about breaking stuff unless you like to hit the wall all day long you will not break anything.. I have hit the wall very hard and the only thing is pop a dog bone.. If I where you get the CVD thats a must.. Lets put it this way I was at the track once and a guy from the track had the new F1 from serpent and he try to cut me off in a turn and I smack him by the middle of his F1 and the F1 was out for the day but my NT1 was still running fine and I hit the wall that same day a lot. I have gotten better in my driving so I do not hit the wall that much anymore..
Wow......strong car! Thanks for the imput. I don't seam to crash that often but good to know the car will stand up to a bang or two.....lol.
Originally Posted by
asw7576
This is my suggestions :
This is what I use in my car.
1. Buy alluminium wheel Hex, 0.00mm and + 0.75mm
2. Use longer screws ( increase the screw length by 2mm and 4mm from original length. Measure depth with toothpick. ). Use titanium screws to keep the weight the same. Longer screws will strengthen your car chassis against flexes. Possibly less chance of getting 2nd gear broken syndrome . Chassis will become stiffer too. Warning : understeering is highly likely...... need new setup to overcome understeering, eg. two holes damper piston at front, one hole piston damper at rear; 37 shore front, 40 shore rear; 2.6mm rear stabiliser.
3. Buy lightweight clutchbell with cooling vent.
4. Buy Alluminium damper body. ( in this case, I use Mugen MTX4 damper body ).
Nice. Good idea on the longer screws. I like that idea. Always been a fan of a strong chassis, rigid.
I was going to ask about the plastic shocks. Somewhat suprising to me a car of this calibur and promoted as a "Luxury" touring car has these and not aluminum? They must work I take it? Do the factory drivers use these stock shocks? Or do they upgrade?
All good stuff. Thanks for the input asw.
Originally Posted by
FF25510
Thanks for the link. How is the car on weight in stock form?
I see a good many using very heavy oil in the rear diff' (80,000WT) and using sometimes 2 shore rating's higher at the rear on tires? Is this due to the car needing more steering?
Again, thanks for everyone's input. Looking seriously at getting one soon.
Does the 08 come with front CVD's only?
Regards all,
British Menace