Old 05-28-2008, 01:56 PM
John Stranahan
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iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
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In the vein of you have to finish to win. I continue my bulletproofing of the car. I had a pair of steering arm screws get loose already. The manual says not to tighten them very much. Here are some solutions so they don't get loose in a race. I puchased these graphite steering arms. Now I swear the web site photo showed a few different ballstud holes for changing ackerman; the photo is the same as my part now. That was my intent, to change ackerman. Instead they have one hole. The arm is shorter so some Ackerman change will result as the angle of my rearward raked steering links will change. I also got a set of longer screws and tiny nylock nuts that are used on the pivot ball. So here are two plans. Get the graphite. The screw holes are undersized so the screw threads a nice tight thread into them. You can now tighten the crap out of the tiny screw realizing of course that it is a tiny screw. Second plan. Use the stock steering arm but get two of these packages and then use a longer screw and a locknut. Trim the screw to size after instal with the Dremel cut off wheel. The road car may already come with this graphite arm. At least it is pictured in the manual.

A third plan at no cost is blue locktite. It will secure the screw to the upper hole and under the head.

Note I also went to a steel ball stud so that it would be locked. I had one of the aluminum ones get way loose. I used a short ballstud on the right and a tall ballstud on the left plus a washer thickness shim for proper bumpsteer. I discussed bump steer previously. I fine tuned it now here. I will trim off the extra steel threads.

More tuning parts came in. Plastic ride height adjusters, Reactive Caster blocks. A roll center kit. The roll center kit looks like it just duplicates the top clamps on the upper A-arm inner hinge pin but they must stack under the pin and then longer screws complete the assembly. I added titanium steering links and titanium pivot balls. This is to lighten unsprung weight a bit and also to have crash parts on hand. I'll note now that the lower A-arm fits both sides. Thats a nice feature. I have 1 spare on hand.

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Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-28-2008 at 02:57 PM.
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