TRArena

Hey Malik

Option 1 - "cheap as chips" option -

Remove the e-clips and dremel the front and rear hinge pins so they sit flush with the outside of the arms. Then get a 3mm button head screw (or a counter sunk washer and screw) and screw it into the arm (on the inner side of the hinge pin) so that half of the screw head (or counter sunk washer) covers the hinge pin. Simple and cheap.

Option 2 - a threaded hinge pin option (this is the one i would recommend - it's gonna cost around USD$30.00 all up but IMHO it's worth it to get rid of those damn e-clips )

you will need -

a) either the Cen GS027 42mm threaded pin or the K-Factory 41.5mm hardened threaded pin (for the front arms)
b) K-Factory 49.5mm hardened threaded pin (for the rear arms)
c) Cen MXS34 and MXS35 wheel base spacers

heres' some links to the K-Factory pins -

http://www.rcshopping.com/profra.jsp...searname=k8031
http://www.rcshopping.com/profra.jsp...searname=k8032

With the front pins you can use the 1mm spacer between the front hub carrier and the arm to reduce some of the slack between the two. The 4mm spacer is used as a shim between the head of the threaded pin and the arm. Tighten up and check for binding (there shouldn't be any with the CNC hub carrier but if you are using the stock plastic one, you may need to remove the 1mm spacer)

With the rear ones, you will need to countersink the head 1 mm into the arm and reverse the nylon nut to get a good grab without binding. I used the 5mm spacer between the rear hub and the inside of the arm.


I have also heard of some guy's using hardened screws (or bolts i guess is a more accurate descripton) available from "Tony's Screws" but i have not heard any feedback on how they stood up to the job.

Heres's a couple of pics of one of mine (i used the Cen pin on the front on this one - the K-Factory one is prob better - it's lighter, stronger and the head is flatter - but it is a flat headed screw driver head not a hex head like the cen one)