Overflow, there are a lot of small tricks to getting sway bars to work well. I have seen a lot of cases where they are not done properly and cause some very odd handling.
I always make sure to start with a flat bar, testing and tweaking it on a peice of glass. Then make sure you are starting with even length end links. Last before the real fun starts, make sure the mounting points are free, but not loose.
Now take out the tweak station and disconnect one side of the sway bars. Set the tweak in the car as precisely as possible. Reconnect the bar and recheck tweak. If the bar is right, it will not effect the tweak.
This is where the tuning comes in, since it will take some trial and error to get it to remain untweaked with the sway bar connected if it is not right to start with. I NEVER tweak a car with the sway bars connected the first time I check it.
The ultimate test is on the track. If it steers better to one side with the bar connected, pop one link off one of the sway bars and see if the problem goes away. This is a subtle problem, sometimes not even noticed by a lot of racers. But if you are really getting a lot out of your car and want that last little bit, this should help. If the car steers fine with the bar disconnected, but is better to the left for example with the bar connected, lengthen the link on the right rear, or left front an 1/8-1/4 turn, retest.
Hope that makes sense?
...Jim
W.E.D.