Originally Posted by
teamgp
TomB,
Which shoe are you using? The yellow one works the best and does get a dark line on it, but it isn't a problem.
From my own experience...
Set the air gap (between shoe and bell) between 0.6 and 0.7mm. Anything more will warp the weights and they may break and wedge in between the shoe and bell. Anything less causes the clutch to engage too quickly at times. Set the end play between 0.05mm and 0.15mm. The XRAY weights work great with this setup.
Make sure the clutch spring you're using doesn't fit too tightly over the flywheel nut threads. I prefer the JP hard spring myself and I tighten the spring nut down 1.2mm to 1.5mm past the end of the flywheel nut, depending on track grip. The 1.5mm setting gives a lot of snap and hard acceleration.
BTW, luv the xray vision comment!!!
ok cook, yeah i have my spring 1.5mm tightened down, it's a older crf spring and i've noticed it has lost it's "hardness" but this shouldn't be too much of an issue.
also i think i am running about .7mm clutch gap, i'm not sure though, i'll check to make sure. Also, running .1mm end play...now that i think of it i think the mugen thrust might fix it...who knows though. yep i'm running the yellow show.
the only thing is i am not setting the clutch up the xray manual way, i'm doing it the mugen way as i find the xray method tricky, and a bit complicated. i set the clutch gap with the internal bearing installed, and set clutch gap by adding shims as needed, then i do endplay once the internal settings are done, i find this way alot easier....this could also be a reason for the issues though admitedly
