Originally Posted by
Solara
Paulie....I don't want to sound crazy, but if you believe upgrading the stock TA05 pertaining to "YOUR" specification is cheaper and better then using the stock TA05R........then I can GARANTEE you that you will spend a lot more money AFTER upgrading your TA05 to the $190 mark then you will keep adding option and parts..I myself is NOT the only 05R owner, I bought (3) R version the day it came out from RC Champ and I don't own TAMIYA before. I got the R because it is one of those "CRAZY NOT TO BUY" if you want the TA05 version kinda car.
You mentioned the LW is NOT STRONG.........ah...HOW? I have my R and I stock all the necessary parts for all of my car, like arms and knuckles and belts...I have 2 packs of new LW arms F and R for almost 1 year now, both package are COLLECTING DUST since. I ran my 05R with 3.5 OUTDOOR with 1/8th cars and get PUNCH OUT to the track mulitple times...the R broke NOTHING on those cases. I broke only 1 parts more then 1 time...the steering knuckles...thats all, very common for TC and I dont' expect my $200 toy car will be any exception. Then...my belt, after 3.5, 13.5, stock 27T, on rubber outdoor, indoor, foam indoor carpet....I better expect my belt get loose and need to change...
Really...thats all I have broke. Almost 1 year of using, and I don't BABY my RC car, I beat the crap out of it. And thats why I want the TA05R cause it use TUB...not those facny carbon chassis like the MS version.
Those steering option thingy that you have mention........please, one word, BLING...useless. OK...not useless..just BLING.
You want to race TCS without the TRF shocks...? Dream on.....
You don't need fancy shock towers...not even the R one. Shock tower is shock tower, do nothing except looks better UNLESS it does give you more shock position THAT you are going to use.
Static build up....ah, I think, that happened to me 1 time when I was racing outdoor with like 12-13 cars running outside without radio freq. control....car went stop, then slowly drive straight and stop again. Turn off radio speedo, turn it back on....never a problem since. And if you think the tub does build up static...I ran CARPET most of the time. CARPET build up 100TIMES more static then the tub. But our R has never gave us any glitching problem...again, almost 1 year of running, not a problem like TAMIYA mentioned. They said carbon tub will work...for me, if there are no problem, why fix...
Beside, check the TA05 thread, someone install a wire and GROUND the chassis, problem solved...1 wire = 5 cents?
I don't know HOW you can tell TA05R is stiffer then TA05....by how much? Tub car...suppose to be stiff, and you are NOT going to tell the diff no matter HOW you do it...it is a LOW END TC car...don't compare that to XRAY.
Yes...you should stock a set of STOCK TA05 arms for outdoor use, like Team Driver use the stock arm for their 416. Like what...$20?
My cost so far for the R...less then $300 including the Mobile SC430. $50 of parts are spare that I am still NOT using...from almost a year ago. The R is a tank, and it is probably the BEST INVESTMENT ever in my 24 years of RC. Llike I have mentioned, that TRF $50 shocks is the TOP NOTCH ITEM of all the RC brand that I have ever build. I willl invest the shocks WAY before the 1-way....
We raced the R with the 13.5 PRO motor, alot faster then the 23T, so the R can defintiely handle the speed and torque. Also, our R (G12367 and myself and the other guy here in Rctech) can use the R to race against top cars like Mi3, TC5, 007 008 Phi....however, I said, we can HANG with them, not beating them. Just to tell you HOW GOOD is the R. Not to mention, rubber, foams, indoor, outdoor....without changing chassis, upper deck, shocks, or even arms...just setting and diff/1-way/spool...and OFF and GO. I am going to race the R on upcoming TCS @ Trackside (2 weeks)...my car, right now, is capable to run on GT2 AND GT1...I care the less it is a tub car, but lap time don't lie...it is capable to run against 415 416 or MS chassis.....
Tub chassis does not protect your electronic a lot more then carbon fiber chassis. You choose tub chassis because you don't want to buy the $$$ carbon fiber chassis, right..? I choose to buy R because it is cheap, because I want it to be cheap, so I can even run OFF ROAD if I want to....I use the Mi3 for the more serious races. R is definitely for all my TCS RACE...and the most important reason...I can race her in GT1 to GT3 class, no problem...but you CANNOT use the 414 or 416 on GT2 and GT3...
My last advise....buy the R and run it. Then upgrade the 1-way (already proved it is a good option for low-turn motor use) body (try SC430, not the lay down front shock bling bling version) Type A tires, Stock TA05 arm set. If you have extra cash, get the rear aluminum upright (prefer -1 degree) I think those are the EVO 4 option and THATS IT
....you are planning this like your career, or getting marry, or buying a $1 million house...please. You even plan about the STATIC problem when I am still looking forward to experince myself...
P.S......Tamiya re release the HOTSHOT almost 20 years later, I don't think TA05R has been released 20 years already....it still selling over JAPAN. US does not has it does not mean they are discontinued. Check out Tamiya USA.
Solara,
I really appreciate the feedback. And I agree with you 100%!!! After all my research and reading the awesome responses in this thread, I decided to get the TA05-R after all. If my LHS still has it, I'll be picking it up tonight!
But just to address some of your concerns with my methodology, here was my thought process...
1) LW not being strong - I only gathered that after I read about it on this forum. Then I also read that the TC3 suspension is even worse. Ya know what? I raced a TC3 on carpet when I was in the US and beat the hell out of that car - never broke a thing, not one thing. So, yeah, the TA05-R is most likely fine.
2) Steering option - I wanted it for the bearings, not for the bling (although that's a nice litle benifit). Since the R comes with the carbon bits in that area, I'll just get bearings if it doesn't already come with them and skip the Blue aluminum bits. One question though, is that carbon steering plate a good idea since it comes with bearings also, or does the kit itself have bearings in that area?
3) TRF shocks - I know they rock. Are they required though? Again, the fastest guy in the A-main runs a box stock TA05-IFS with only bearings in the steering, a front 1-way, and the stock shocks, so it can be done. Not really sure though if these are official Tamiya races though. They might be, because Tamiya's top driver (forgot his name) is comming here on Feb 17th.
4) Stifness - I don't have first hand experience with this chassis, but I'd imagine if the braces are stiffer (as the R version has the carbon reinforced bits) it should not flex as much.
5) I am not wanting the tub chassis because of cost. I have a pretty good budget these days and can really buy anything I want. Doesn't mean I want to though, he he he. I'm sure I can have just as much fun with the TA05-R as with any other chassis out there. The real reason I wanted the tub chassis is because the skill level of the people I'll be racing with seems to vary greatly. If you get T-boned, I'd think the tub would protect your gear a little better than it being exposed. I'd rather replace a $5 chassis than a $100 servo.
With all that being said though, I'm not oblivious to the fact that the R model is the better choice. I am not new to R/C either. Been racing Nitro's for years, and did electric touring w/rubber tires for about a year.
Just wanted to guage the state of things to see what's what. And from your oustanding reply, I know I made the right choice in joining this forum.
Keep your fingers crossed for me guys. I'm hoping my LHS didn't sell his TA05-R yet, cause I'm picking it up tonight!!!
- Paulie