Originally Posted by
94eg!
Thanks for the info with the ball link, but I'm quite sure we shaved it as stated in the book. Once we moved the ball to the more inward position on the saver, all is fine. It still have tons of steering angle on the wheels. I'll give it another once over next time I inspect the car...
As for the droop, I thought it might be the same thing, so we tried using the Ron Atomic asphalt settings. Even with only that 4mm of droop (from pan up to control arm tip), we were unable to avoid contacting the control arm block. Even with the car resting at 5mm ride height (w/ new Take-Off RP30 tires) the turnbuckles still hit.
The car seems to drive brilliantly with the ball links on top of the knuckles. This did cause minimal contact between tie-rod & the sway bar though. We moved to the sway-bar ball ends inward to give better clearance, but they still barely touch at full steering lock. I imagine this will stiffen the front sway a little bit...
Keep in mind that I have no real experience with competition cars, so I can't say for sure if the car drives well or not...
It probably don't as you've added a TON of bump steer. 4mm droop isn't enough on this car. I've got Steen Graversen's Prague setup and the front droop is 6mm. With this setting there is no contact. You could probably go to 5mm of droop but any lower value will result in the turnbuckles touching the toe block. Also what you might want to do, and any Stallion owners for that matter, is to mount the balls on the steering knuckle upside down. What I've done is to put a screw through it with a nut on the other side to hold it tight on the steering knuckle. This nearly eliminates the bump steer built in the suspension.
A picture is worht a thousand words so here you go...