Originally Posted by
Scottrik
What Arn0 has done is exactly what makes the Slapmaster kit what it is...he's done the collar so it picks up the OUTER race of the hub bearing rather than the now standard collars that pick up the inner race. This hand-machined collar is why the SlapMaster kits run $20-25...yeah the thrust bearing is a $3 part, making that collar and then packaging and distributing them so they're readily available to all and making sure the shop makes an acceptable mark-up is where the "magic" is. Hell...I've got access to a lathe but if Brian's willing to do 'em for what they sell for I wouldn't bother. Time better spent on something else. Like learning to drive.
Adam, you'll see several well-intentioned people saying just buy a $3 thrust bearing from XYZ Bearings and throw it in there. It HELPS, but it is by NO means the solution. It will make the diff spin a little more freely but it doesn't protect that outer bearing from improper side-loading. That side-load is present at all times when the diff is tensioned but it spikes WAY over the top every time you hit a barrier with your rear wheel/axle. SlapMaster's and Arn0's collar eliminates that impact load from affecting the bearing. End result, longer bearing life and no more heats ruined by poor handling because the bearing got notchy when you hit.
I agree that the slapmaster kit is expensive because of the delrin piece the kit contains. On a CRC car the red alu piece can be modded extremely easily to do just the same thing.
I did this with a body reamer cause at that moment I had nothing else in my hands, but you can just cut a chamfer on one side of the alu spacer and make sure that side goes against the bearing (the reamer didnt like it but its an area where the holes would be too big for a body post anyway). The inner ring of the ball bearing will not be touched, neither will the shield.
Easy, cheap and I can still turn it around and press the bearing when I want to.
See included pics to clarify.