Howzit guys,
Just a reminder of an old post I placed a good while back. By the way, shaft is better for a 540 motor ... also try spools & 1-way diffs.
* Make sure to get your 'of the shelve' motor specs (dyno) before your start
* Get a container with lukewarm-to-hot soapy (sunlight liquid) water to soften the brushes
* Run the motor submerged at 2v for about 30mins
* Stuff rubbing-compound in-between the comm+brushes, run motor at 2v. Repeat this until the brushes are fully seated. This should not take longer than 30mins
* Then take brasso in an old oil bottle (or syringe) and squirt the comm & bushings continuously for about another 30mins
* Submerge the motor again to cleanout all the icky black stuff again
* Change icky water for clean luke-to-hot water and submerge motor again to clean properly.
* Blow dry the motor with air (compressor/canned). Beware of canned motor cleaner of these motor's bushings, as I they dry out easy and cause drag
* Oil bushings with good (any brand) thin oil
* You can use comm-drops, but in my opinion is a 'nice2have' only
Spec your motor again after this process; take on the track and gear high. In my Pro4, I rolled to +-50mm depending of track, using a 60T spur.
If you’re lucky to have a dyno, you'll notice huge increase in torque after the above exercise and maybe a bit more rpm's. As mentioned before in this tread, driving style is key and keeping your car's momentum continuous is vital.
Additionally, I've cutout a glove for the motor out of a chamois (sheep skin) cloth, with the vents open. Before hitting the track, I soak the glove in water and then use canned intro-freeze to ice up the motor.
These days, I see the guys use a pc-peltier-cooler contraption...I haven't used it myself as yet.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Vance.