Rezencloud. That would be ideal if the Losi MiniT shocks fit the same Associated RC18T ballstuds.
YYhayyim. Agreed. I am usign the X11 LRP 3.5R motor.
Adam-
Aluminum Screws
I ordered some Aluminum Screws from
Fastener Express.There is no screw kit so I ordered the following sizes
25-3 x .5 x 6mm. Flat head Socket head cap crews
25-3 x .5 x 6mm Button Head Socket head cap screws
No shorter sizes are available, but you can cut these down where appearance matters with a Dremel Cutoff wheel. Only the 3 Spur gear screws need to be shortened. This is enough to complete most of the screws that can tolerate aluminum on this kit. I plan to exclude the hinge pivot screws, the two steering bellcrank screws. The screws that hold the motor plate to the rear bulkhead. If you leave this screw loose or missing you run the risk of stripping the spur when you you have a little head on with a pipe. That motor will flex forward and the wheels will be braked hard on the pipe.
The tiny screws I would leave steel as there is not much weight savings and steel is much stronger.
If you are running lead ballast then of course the use of Aluminum screws is not helpful as they are much weaker than the stock steel screws. Stainless steel screws are about 1/2 the strength of the black screws that come with Associated kits as well.
I'll check on Titanium hinge pins. A kit is not available. I probably can meet my 43 ounce target weight with just the Aluminum screws and smaller shocks. This happens to be the weight of the pan car prototype.
Center Shaft Play on braking
I have started to notice a little shudder in the car when I brake. I have traced this to play between the spur gear adaptor and the shaft. That little cross pin beats the slot longer as you apply brakes and then power. On the Losi JRXS I fixed this with blue locktite paste in the slot. I have tried this now on the TC5. I do notice that TIR offers an all metal center shaft/spur gear adaptor. Generally these increase rotating weight over the plastic parts, but it should reduce the play. I loctited the other two cross pins as well.
On most layouts braking is not needed. My track has two hairpins where braking seems to produce better lap times. It is also a more exciting way to drive the car hard.
I have tried three ways to enter the sweeper. Hot, the car tends to drift too wide, a quick shot of brakes has been successful, this is what the nitro guys do. That shudder has been compromising corner entry. Go to coast early and enter not so hot using just drag brakes. I am still trying the 3. With the pan car I can enter full speed hot and it has sufficient turn in to make passes right there.
Note that this adaptor is a good place for Aluminum screws. Because of the high rotational speed they would do the greatest to improve punch.