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Old 05-08-2003, 02:15 PM
glide 1
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
Posts: 760
Default Re: Parts I would like to see for the SD...

Originally posted by sosidge
In no particular order...

1) Front shock tower with an extra, lower row of shock mounting holes - out of the box, the car has limited front suspension downtravel, and a huge amount of unnecessary uptravel. A lower mounting hole would let you run sensible ride height and droop without having to fit longer shock ends/bodies, or unscrew the standard ends. The rear shock mounts could also be a tiny (like 1mm) bit lower.

2) Alumium suspension mounts, with rotating bushings - like Hotbodies make for the Pro 3 - so you don't have to force the plastic parts and suspension pins to get alternative toe and kick-up. In particular, I think the forward rear mount should be available with the bushings, because mine has already been stretched by running 3deg toe, and I'll start to develop play in the mounts if I use other settings.

4) Alternative caster blocks.

5) Graphite plastic parts - particularly the caster blocks, which are a little on the flexy side in the standard plastic.

6) Outdrive rings with slots - it's a real pain trying to manhandle the diffs out to adjust them - 2 screws access is brilliant, but it takes two more minutes (and more disassembly) to get the driveshafts out. Larger diameter rings, with slots in them to let the driveshafts slide straight out (like on the Pro 3) would make diff access and adjustment much easier. It would also speed up spur changes.

7) Rear input shaft with two flats on it for the spur holder grub screw to locate on - with one flat, it's easy to slie the spur holder on and have it facing the wrong way once you get the pin in - with two flats, it wouldn't matter. Could be home made with a file or dremel I suppose.

I would appreciate other owners thoughts on these parts - should Yokomo be making them?
Can I add a few more???

* A WIDE bumper from RPM!!!
* maybe aluminum diff cases or some other material that you can screw in tighter.
* caster blocks with king pin and the TC3's and LOSI's. I remember having to replace king pins on the old yokes all the time

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