Originally Posted by
InspGadgt
Sounds like you are only using the spring washers. There are usually 1 or 2 steel cone washers which are spring washers and 1 large aluminum cone which presses on the inner race of the bearing. It wasn't done away with for cost savings...they truely are smoother when built properly. But if you want a thrust assembly get the Slapmaster one...its awesome. I've converted all my cars over to running those.
The cone and spring washers are there purely as a spring, you could do away with them and use a coil spring if you could find one suitable.
I have attached a picture of how a differential should be.
The thrust race is pressed against the hub not the ball race. A standard ball race is not going to be as smooth, sorry but that is just an engineering fact.
As long as the thrust race is in good condition and taking 100% of the lateral load it will be smoother. I have tried both types and the thrust race was smoother and allowed for a finer adjustment of resistence.
Corally & Tamiya knew what they were doing. Trinity? Nope
I used 5000wt diff oil the thrust bearing.
I don't understand why you were charging that pack even when you were not using it
. I'm not saying that is what caused it to flame. IMHO you should run the pack to no less than 80% capacity and then just leave them till the next time you use them. If I know that it's going to be a long time I use boost them back up a bit to maybe 50%.
My personal lipo rules:
No Repeaking
No Overdischarging
Don't use them when cold
No poking a screwdriver through them when wired to a 12v battery
No trying to make my own packs anymore because soldering alu is a nightmare