Likes and Disklikes From a Visual Inspection
inner hinge pivots (pic below). I like these because they are mounted vertically. This gives them some flex in a crash. I experimented with this on my home built pancar front suspension. On the rear, of the TC5, I am running thick shims behind the hinge pivot supports in the back to give me 2 degrees of toe in. (Then I added 1/2 degree hubs to give me a desired 2.5 degrees.) If you point the shim in a direction other than straight down you will maximize the flex of these vertical supports and possibly reduce breakage in the crashes. I put similar spacers on the front (front and back of the pin) to bring the width out closer to 190 mm. They will provide my desired flex as well.
The diffs will pop out by removing 4 screws and taking off the shock tower and cap assembly. No need even to pop off the shocks and camber links. You can see two of the screws in the picture. This should make diff maintenance easy. You adjust belt tension by popping out the diffs and rotating two cams. The Losi JRXS pioneered this innovation and it is an easier adjustment to make on the Losi. You don't make an adjustment to belt tension very often, so I am satisfied with the Associated method and very happy there is no idler/tension pulley necessary.
Outdrives-I await the steel parts. These plastic outdrives are a little stronger looking than the lightweight plastic outdrives on the TC3, but not by a whole lot. They will tend to twist in the crashes, especially if you use a locked front diff.
Front CVD-The Losi JRXS pioneered a true constant velocity front Drive Axle, the Losi LCD. You really need a double Cardan Joint to have Constant Velocity. I wish the TC5 had borrowed this design element as well. It truly reduces the wear on the CVD joint itself, and on the outdrives, by eliminating most of the drive axle vibration when running a locked diff. For a standard diff the steel drive axle will work just fine. Maybe we will see some LCD aftermarket action here.
A-arms-The A-arms are much beefier than the TC3. Unfortunately what this does is cause breakage of the caster block in the crashes. Maybe an Aluminum Aftermarket caster block would be warranted. I have to run the car first to see.
Chassis-The car is lightweight and also very stiff in Torsion. I noticed the recommendation for an ITF chassis. These are in stock at Stormer. It would not be too difficult, though, to put some more lightening holes on the left side of the chassis to add some more flex for outdoor asphalt. I like the fact that the top strap which is responsible for a lot of tweak issues has double screws long ways on each attachment tab. This should prevent movement. I am glad they got rid of the stiffening rib (FTTC4) which always looked to me like a tweak nightmare. When you twist the chassis it should act like a taught spring. There should be no parts sliding on each other with twist. No creaking and shifting allowed.
more to come.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-12-2007 at 12:29 PM.