Originally Posted by Z00M
Everything in razzor's post is correct. And the ridge on the clutch adjusting nut faces away from the flywheel.
Ive been doing the clutch this way from day one.
i dont see how it can be done any different with out making it complicated.
As for the the tension nut the ridge faces forward away from the flywheel.
I tried it the other way and the ridge doeasnt locate in the center of some of the springs properly and can also be a reason why the springs are tweaking.
Another probelm i found was some of teh guys were not removing the inner clutch bearing when setting the clutch gap which is teh area in blue on teh pic.
once gap is set I install the inner bearing and shim for endplay of .1mm
Lately i have been using a clutch gap of .5 and its been the most consistent.
With the black shoe i started using 1 weight in shoe and the red shoe i use 2 weights as i found the red shoe slipped more than i liked it too.
On the tweeking of the black 1.8mm spring i went through all my springs yesterday 3 from engines and 4 in packaging from my stock and noticed that i had one tweeked on a engine but that they are also a bit tweeked when they are new as they have less coils so this might be why they tweek.
Even with teh tweek none of my shoes are worn uneven.
Thats why i am thinking that Gansei's problem was a stuck shoe/weight or binding on one of the sliding pins or a damaged/tweeked shoe base plate because that was what happened to me a while back.
Yellow springs are perfect.