R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - DARKSIDE MOTORSPORTS - "We Are What's Next"
Old 02-05-2007, 12:08 AM
  #429  
InspGadgt
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,191
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Originally Posted by Ffejdat
Hey all, I just picked up a new Darkside MX2 chassis at my local track here in Minnesota, Impulse purchase.... Got a couple of quick questions for Eric or anyone else before I tear into building it...
1- My 4 rear links plastic parts are all same length, rather than short and long like some have described... for simplicity?
2-Which link holes in the chassis do I want to use, forward or back? picture for reference..
3-Which tweak holes do I want to start with, I saw earlier in the thread that someone recommended the outermost ones?
4-My front steering linkage came with 2 Associated style links and two big captured ball links, I am presuming to use the captured ball ones on the inside?
5-My kit came with servo mounts that will mount the servo flat, is that the preferred way to run the servo, verus angled?
All the questions for now, maybe more later... I am excited to try this car out, I am really impressed by the hardware and completeness of the kit, nice parts, axle, cool pod plates, nice damper tubes, etc. etc... Only minor thing I saw was no antenna mount of any kind in the kit, I have a few Corally type ones that will work good and take up little room...
Good luck at the 'Birds!
1 - Odd...but it should still work.
2 - I used the longer holes.
3 - I started with the outer most holes because it seemed all my other link/mono ball based suspension cars in the past have had more roll then my t-plate cars. So far it's worked well for me.
4 - Yours came with those? Lucky dog! Mine were all snap on rod ends. Yes the captured rod ends should go to the inside on the servo saver.
5 - It seems more companies have been trying the flat servo again...in my mind it is still up in the air over which is better but I like flat because it lowers the CG more and puts the tie rods in a position where they are much easier to adjust.
6 - All the years when I worked at hobby stores I always reccomended starting with the setup box stock (2 washers in this case) to at least get a base line of what the car will do and adjust from there.

Additional suggestions:
- I like the small kimbro servo saver better then the kit black kimbro servo saver. The small one will bring your tie rods a bit lower and also allow you to mount the servo a bit lower.
- Get your hands on a Slapmaster Thrust Bearing! Those things are awesome and will not only build you a smooth diff, but a smooth diff that lasts a long time.
- Pay attention to the washers used to space the rear axle out...I didn't notice it at first but one side is not flat...it's been indexed a bit to contact only the inner race of the bearing...either that or mine wore an edge into the washer.
- I like having the standoffs in front of the battery instead of on the sides. I allready had one crash due to a glitch where I broke the ears off the servo that upon taking apart the car I discovered was due to the battery hitting hard enough to bend the screws holding the standoffs and impacting the servo. Silly me I had aluminum screws holding the standoffs to the chassis when I should have used the steel ones.

Keep in mind these are my personal suggestions after running the car in only 2 races and I am an average racer...not some awesome national guy who knows more about the car then I do
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