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Old 02-26-2003, 06:35 AM
  #46  
AP
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 12
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Originally posted by LaxRacer
Ok ... if you are ripping the car apart ... check your bearings again .... specifically the ones near your diffs, also check the ones at your axles ... but I don't think its your bearings.

I think problem is your diff. If you have the time switch it with the rear one and run the car. If you have the money get a whole new diff. To test since its a pain to get to the rear diff. With out knowing your rebuilding practice, if you have ripped your diffs apart and not replaced the diff nut thats the problem.

Since its consistent in spinning out in both directions and at speed it really sounds like the diff.

I need clarification on your droop setting ... Is 5 mm saying you have 5 mm of droop or 0 mm of droop since you have a 5mm ride height ? Its an often miscommunictated setup setting.

Now setup stuff that you can do while the car is open ... Go one spring rate softer in the rear, go a 1 mm to 2 mm lower on the car all the way around, if you track can handle it (I have found that the Pro2 hates being high) Up front try going with 0 or -1 of toe, Enough camber for even tire wear. Camber links hub side high, chassis side low. Shocks set for you driving style. In the Rear, go with -1 toe blocks, put your Camber links at there hightest mounting locations. shocks set to your driving style, also make sure you rear hubs are in the bottom hole. I once put the car back together wrong and put them in the top hole by accident.

how are you settin your ride height ??? Don't use the tweek screws to set ride hieght , and try not having too much preload on you springs, especially if you are using HPI springs. If you have the money Get Xray springs, for the New Xray shocks, not the Serpent shocks.

IF you can get your hands on some of those cone washers ... install them under the rear bulkead, it works the same as the handling kit, it will change the rear roll chacteristics.

Try finding Dr. Diffs Web page, and try some of those setups.

You might want to do the Camber link conversion, look at Thads car on the HPI website. Or if you search around you can find pictures of Hara's car that he was using before the Pro3 was released, he only ran the pro2 like twice, but his setup is interesting.

Hopefully that helps, and gives you alot to think about.

C
I'm sorry I have made this so difficult to understand. I'll try again. The ride height is set at 5mm, buy using preload spacers on the shocks NOT the droop screws. The droop is limited to 5mm buy the droop screws. So, with the car setting level I can place a 5mm spacer under each corner of the chassis.Then, I can also raise the reae of the car an additional 5mm before the tires lose contact with the surface. I hope this is more clear.
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