Originally Posted by Section 8
The whole point was not to run the weights.
8 i was referring to plum's question.
As for your issue.
i run high bite clay, weekly. our facility has an off-road track set in the middle of an oval track. the off-road uses the oval portion also. a video from last week which i missed out on.
video thanks to google the oval corners sweep, and the infield is fairly tight but not quite hair pin. Losi guys will bicycle or traction roll on the sweepers in stock if they are not careful. its that kind of traction.
Your set up is a bit puzzling to me. Everything looks extreme. You run the least amount of progression on the front with a soft spring/oil combo, have the tires square up fast and with the least camber.. Then on the rear you run the most progression, quite soft and then a tight roll center. Are you driving the car or is it driving you? I’m not asking this to be a smart ass but it seems you would be fighting this thing. Especially with the chassis mods. Some calming of this would really help. Some pictures of your track would really help but this setup(changes) will work as a start for any indoor track running slicks.
First, if you are running slicks on the front you will have a lot of off-power steering. Try a green spring, 2 piston with 35 weight oil to help slow this down a little. mount 2-O. Your link is fine, but a lot of corner speed can be picked up with 1 or 2 shims under the stud. I personally run 2-B because its easier to adjust the shims when using non-hex head studs. Go back to the 25 caster blocks and it will get you a bit more steering from the corner off. Going to less camber may actually gain you traction because there will be more tire on the ground to work with. (you are running slicks for the surface area in the first place) Try your 2* and then try going down a half degree all around. Arms level
A trick a lot of guys like to do. Put a few shock limiters inside your shocks, then unscrew your shock ends. 2 full turns = 0.60 or maybe I’m off a decimal like everywhere else. But this will allow you to try limiting without needing to take the shocks apart all the time. Just screw the shock end 1 full turn for each shim, or back it off the equivalent of shims you put in to gain back full shock travel. On our particular track I have 060 up front, 090 in the rear and I’m using 060 in front and rear. 090 was a bit much :P
Run the battery to the back.
Start with 1* anti squat. (add no weight anywhere. Weight is for loose/fluffy tracks)
Back of the car: Your car looks it spends more time fighting itself than anything. Keep the 1-B link with 2 washers (if the plastic of the stud base is raised then you have the new brace. Its 0.30 or 0.60 taller than the old (I forget which) and you may need to adjust accordingly) This will get the car to progress forward more instead of transitioning side to side. Let’s get the car to carve through the corners. Its time to stiffen up the rear. Start with 30, 1’s and green. Try 37.5, 1’s silver if the track is smooth. This will make the car ride ‘harder’ but its moving forward more so than compressing. Start with 2-O again. If you do not feel this is not biting enough go to the inside hole all the way around on the lower shock mounts. Wheel base medium. Ride height between arms and bones level.
I run similar to this but I’m 40 2's (maybe 1s)silver up front, and the silver set up in the rear. Currently with 2* antisquat, 25 blocks, no weight added, and black sway bar. With the layout in the video, using a swaybar in stock is a slightly touchy situation. In mod it’s a no-no. Sway-bar = wheelie bar. My car is quite neutral for an AE and easy to drive. I can drive it harder into the first turn in front of the drivers and out brake them with ease. The car squats front/rear on brakes and allows me to duck backmarkers. Between the moisture differences from afternoon to evening I only need to adjust dual rates 5% at most.
If you feel the rear is squatting too much on power causing it to push, drop 5 weight in the rear oil, go to 2 piston. Stay with the same spring.
If you really like to play around with trying stuff I have some things for you to try. For slicks I suggest getting a set of Panther Slicks (clay compound, model # will have a C on the end. soft is not the right compound clay is supposedly pink). That will cover the rear. For fronts use the Panther Wildcat 2wd fronts. Panther used to make tires for Losi, so you'll recognize these as tapers. Same compound front and rear is important. Start with Trinity Blue Bomb One Foams. (A tip, but not necessarily for slicks: For any tire carcus with a pattern on the inside run a piece of duct tape around the foam and back to itself so it touches and sticks to itself. This will make the foams last longer and hold form better) For the fronts cut a rear foam in half. One foam will get you both front tires.
Rears will be straight up. You may wish to trim the inside edges for a little more rounder profile. On the Fronts dremel off the taper pins and the ridge on the edge of the tire - its a must. make sure the profile looks round. When you dremel make sure you get the shine off the tire. Scuff up the rears a little bit to get the shine off them as well. Run a few packs through the tires and dont forget the traction compound. Around here the tires are dynomite by pack 3 or so. I’ll try to get some pics up shortly.
let me know how this works for you.