Originally Posted by NiMo
Place shims on the inside so you can set the clutch gap
then
Place shims on the outside to adjust the end float
I know... but mine is unique hehehe..... ( I don't recommend it ! )
I don't need to add anymore shims after the thrust bearing because I add 0.3mm shim between engine's front bearing and flywheel and 0.2mm shims between pressure plate and clutch shoe ( at the three pins ). Finally, two 0.3mm shims between centax spring's locknut and clutchbell bearing.
With two 0.3mm shims between centax spring's locknut and first bearing on the clutchbell, I intentionally push the bearing goes deeper inside the clutchbell and thus no wobbling at all.
I'm using Green Yellow Spring, all cylindrical weight at UFO clutch, and the clutch shoe is almost touching the clutchbell but it still can spin. When the engine is on high rpm, only the clutch shoe move towards the bell. The bell is fixed, or stationary !!! ( That's why I don't recommend it
)