AI, this was posted in another thread. You have probably already read it, but this is the method I used to set up my stock R40 clutch. It has been a couple of months since I last ran my car and probably a year since I last did my clutch so I couldn't remember exactly how I did it. I do know that the clutch engagement is fairly low. I have the clutch setup even lower for my son's R40 so he can be a bit smoother. Good information.
Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
When you have the whole clutch together you should have the .6mm of end play.
Uhhmmm... close but not quite right. Endplay is different from clutch gap.
When the entire clutch is together, ready to run, you should have barely any endplay (0.1mm). However, there should be a 0.6mm clutch gap between the clutch shoe and the endbell.
If you perform the assembly/shimming in the following order, the clutch gap should be fine, the end play should be minimal, and there is no way that the clutchbell will be pressing against the clutch shoe.
1. Install the following:
0.5mm washer behind flywheel cone -- tapered cone -- flywheel -- flywheel nut -- flyweights -- clutch shoe rear plate -- clutch shoe -- spring cup (in clutch shoe) -- tension spring -- spring preload collar -- clutchbell w/ outermost ballbearing -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw. You leave OUT the following: innermost ballbearing in clutchbell, and small spacer between ballbearings.
2. Set clutch gap to 0.6mm -- using shims on thrustbearing collar.
3. Remove the following:
Machine screw -- thrustbearing assembly -- clutchbell.
4. Install the following:
Innermost ballbearing (on crankshaft) -- small spacer -- clutchbell (with outermost ballbearing in it) -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw.
Make sure you use good grease in the thrustbearing, every time you work on it. Mugen Super Grease is VERY good... it's very thick, lubes well, and lasts a long time.
5. Check the END PLAY... this is the amount that the clutchbell moves on the crankshaft. There should be barely any movement along the crankshaft (0.1mm) but the clutchbell should have some play. It should not be locked in place on the crankshaft, as this puts pressure on bearings and will cause dragging and premature wear/failure.
6. To adjust the end play, you will use the tiny, thin-wall shims. Remove the clutchbell and all bearings (and spacers) (as an assembly), and put these tiny shims on the crankshaft right atop the flywheel nut. Then re-assemble everything and check again.
7. When everything is back together, hold the motor so the crankshaft is pointing at the ground, and spin the clutchbell... it should spin freely (for more than 5sec)... but this depends also on the heaviness of the grease you use in the thrustbearing. If the clutchbell doesn't spin well but seems to bind, you may not have enough endplay or the bearings may be bad.
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Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
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Last edited by GlennCauley : Today at 07:49 AM.