Hi Doomah,
Loosening the rear diff will tend to make the car slide less on power, and also make it slightly less stable off power (I believe). I've only ever really played with the settings when on slippy floors, the rest of the time I set it and leave it.
The difference between the D and C is that the C has the holes for the suspension balls slightly closer together. If you put a C on the front and a D on the rear (both at the rear of the car), you'll get 0.5deg of toe in.
Now the clever bit about the 415 is, by utilising the narrrower blocks, you can also vary the track width of the car, whilst still retaining the correct toe angle.
Basically there is 0.5deg of toe angle between each block, and the steps go (from narrowest to widest)
XD, XC, XB, XA, X, A, B, C, D
I have a chart on my website that should helps with this.....
.....which nicely leads into my next bit....drumroll please!
I've finally got off my arse and sorted out my website! At the moment, it's all still on one page, and all the old info is on there. But the biggest changes are behind the scenes, as i've sorted out the files to make it more managable my end. Also... no more /trf415pages etc. Just a simple thard.co.uk now
Over the next few days I'm going to work on it a bit more, split the sections into seperate pages, and maybe try and get a semi database going for the setups (spool, diff, one-way... LWT, STD, Pro-mod arms.... MSX etc).
I've also finished (finally) my MSX build review, but before I post it, I want to get the "build tips" section up and running.
Now if everyone whoose got a tip (however small) could email me using the address on the site, or PM through here that would be great. I'm really going to try and push it now, to make it as good a site as possible. (don't worry I'll credit all tips
)
Cheers
Ed
p.s. that includes any FAQ you can think of too!