MIKE: Try denatured alcohol on your tires before each run. Raising the hingepin mounts f/r equally .025 might help a bit also. Try front triangle and circle block with .075 under both (three tab AE shim), for the rear, circle block, X3.0, with .100 under the circle block, .075 under the X3.0. Keep in mind, if the rear is a great deal softer in setup, it will transfer weight to/from the front too fast, and essentially toss the rear around. Try and use the same piston f/r, with 5wt oil difference, lighter in the back. The spring choice isnt a problem, but with a #1 piston, the spring will load/unload alot faster, making the car feel choppy to throttle input, and could drive "square" through the corners. This may be why you dont feel like you can run a rear swaybar (?), as the car doesnt feel consistent and with enough rear bite to justify "losing" the rear grip. Honestly, a rear swaybar on the right surface (fairly smooth) doesnt "remove" rear traction, it just controls it. It does however make spring and damping choices easier.
- DaveW