I understand completely. The manual says at the bottom of the setup procedure, if you make a mistake, unplug the battery for about 10 seconds and repeat the process. I wouldn't worry to much about the settings, the speed control seems forgiving. It isn't as simple as a Novak, but the instructions will get you by. I don't see much about a current limiter, which is strange. I know the Novak Tempest PRO I have has a current limiter that is adjusted by a screw of the top. Don't even bother looking for one on your speed control, the Tempest may be a competing speed control, but to say it's outdated would be an understatemet worthy of a kick in the face. Your speed control is much more advanced than the old racer ESC's out there, and I'm betting that the reactive software will take care of current selection. I may be wrong however, seeing as how the only LRP I've ever dealt with was a Runner PRO W/ Reverse. Not only am I inexperienced with LRP, but I actually made my Runner PRO W/ Reverse just a Runner PRO.
A stupid, irresponsible mistake destroyed all the reverse circutry inside the speed control, so now I have a ROAR legal ESC! Note to self: never hook the battery wires up to the motor leads with the intention of testing the motor while the ESC still wired to the motor. Reverse voltage= "NoNo"
