Front:
-70w, #2 piston, yellow spings, upper shock 2nd hole out from inside, bottom shock inside.
-No shims under the toe blocks
-upper camber links longest, with three shims
-camber link on bottom use outer hole on the knuckle with two shims on the steering rack, two shims for bump steer.
-long wheel base
-no sway bar
-4degree caster blocks
-1.5 camber
-battery forward
-1mm droop from the inside of the shock collar
-Plaid tires
Rear:
-50w, #2 piston, copper springs, upper shock out on the tower, bottom shock outside.
-No shims under toe blocks
-longest camber link length with two shims on the inside
-long wheel base
-no sway bar
-2.5 rear toe
-2.0 camber
-1mm droop from the inside of the shock collar
-0degree rear Losi hubs with one shim
-Purple tires
It has a good amount of traction without scrubbing speed. It has plenty of steering enter, mid and exit, (could use alittle more on mid-exit, but I think that comes down to taking the right apex angle) I'm running an Alfa body and Losi JRX-S shocks. Personally I think the molded graphite tub chassis is fine, I would like it to be alittle stiffer, but then it can be less forgiving. I think I'm ready for the next level though. BMI here I come!
I'm going to try balancing the chassis. I'm told this can make a difference. Welcome to the TC4 club Dan.
On the chassis tweak thing, I don't think you will ever find a perfect molded chassis. You will have to use scales to correct it. This is something I also want to try.