Originally Posted by afm

All I can tell you is that on my D3R I followed STS's method (Dino's) exactly as described, cahnaged the conrod after break in, and it lasted me 2 1/2 gallons of Byron's of hard racing at 120ºC, before performance started to decrease. Nothing broke, I measured play in conrod's bushings after every race, and when play got beyond .05mm, I changed P/S kit, piston pin conrod and crank.
These new set I broke it in using a combination of methods. First tank with cool break in method on a bench runing and stoping every 2 minutes at idle, like STS recommends.
Second and third tank at WOT, very rich.
Next tanks on the car in the track up to complete 1 liter of Maxy's fuel.
Results.
This is the fastest STS engine I've had till now, I've won several races and it is going to start it's fourth galon of fuel. I've measured the engine after every race, and there are no signs of wear beyond limits, no power decrease and it runs 10ºC cooler than first set. Everybody asks me if i've done any mods to it, and answer is NO. It is a box stock D3R.
So, if that answers your question as to a measured and compared performance of methods over the same engine..... the answer is obvious...this last method is far superior than factory suggested method. The reason why the factory suggets their method is because it is a safer method that any common driver without experience can do. WOT method requires a break-in-bench, and more edxperience with engine know how and carburation, etcetc., because if not it can cost you an engine.

AFM