Ill have to admit thats a good solution afm. Keeps it at the rich setting and the temps up.

I kinda wish I did the WOT method on my latest d3r now. But my method was a combo of what was suggested by dino for the sts motors. He says to heat cycle the motor to 80C I believe several times. I kinda feel this is neccessary to relieve the initial tightness.

Rather than bust out at full throttle with it at its tightest point, which sounds like a bunch of un-needed stress.

I kinda like dinos method I guess you could say. Cause its just a couple of heat cycles with a specified higher temp, which isnt going to leave it too cold. Then you you swap over to 50-80% throttle blips , on off on off as he says. This to me sounds good and what Ive always done as your able to wait for a second to load in a little more fuel , then what I would figure on off blasts would do is churn up the gas a bit more , rather than send it straight through at high speed and always at the same pathway. With on/off blasts your at least getting some randomness and thats what I feel is needed, basically its your insurance policy.

This way your also not overloading it with gas and sending it through as fast as possible but to where theres so much it cant even get into correct rpms at least somewhat and your always just sitting there.

I also feel just a little to nervous with throttle planted at wot like that. Rather in the throttle blipping method you have a little more down time if needed and you can immediatly stop for a second or two let the car idle for a bit you can check temps , adjust the needle and so forth.

I also kinda like how OS says to change the range a little. Rather than keep it the same. This way it keeps building and building. It may work , but with the WOT method and no temp changes you might not have done it right then move on to the next method and you fly up to a whole new temp range a lot more metal will come out at once.

If you gradually change temps , then things will gradually change and your still blowing through lots of fuel , youll also be removing things one step at a time rather than all at once if things dont go right.

Its kind of like applying the same pressure all at once and keeping it there. It will work overtime. But are you sure its correct? Thats a lot to gamble on. With the blipping and gradual changes you know its coming out little by little.

Ive always believed in gradual temps, but the wot method also interests me. Ive always blipped my cars and they seem to last well. I think with the new heat cycling that I found out from dino and now see this being spoken about elsewhere it sounds good.

I just still want to idle it at first for a few cycles rather than shoot for WOT. The small amount of idling shouldnt do damage and will loosen up the motor enough to prepare it to go into the higher rpm and take wot or blipping.

But I do agree that letting it idle for quite a few tanks is also probably not a good idea. But who has really sat down and tested this fully? I mean im sure people might have observed or thought they observed more life from motors but who has actually tested this out and measured things? Id like to see some test data or something on this perhaps.

But then who will also be able to see what stress the motor has taken for what each method and if one method or the other might snap the con-rod later on because it was put under immediate stress or not.