Originally Posted by
jcalchi
SickDuc,
To answer your question, I'm running an O.S. Speed T1204. Beautiful little motor. Been in love with O.S. Engines for forty years. Had to buy this little gem, as my old FF-320 Pegasus from a retired plane was overkill for 1/10 TC.
As far as my track, (and settings suited to a track), I'd like my baseline setup to be suited for easy driving on a blacktop parking lot. Unfortunately, there are no real on road racetracks in St. Louis, MO. When I say easy driving, I mainly mean I want the car to start moving (clutch engage) at a lower RPM, rather than having to wind it up before it even starts to roll away.
The modern clutch in this car is way more sophisticated than the clutches on all my old 1/8 scale cars: RC300, RC500 and Kyosho Vanning. Back then, installing the clutch on a K&B motor intended for an airplane usually required the use of a Dremel tool. And the only parts were the bell and two stamped metal shoes and a strip of material for the liner
I do love how Kyosho provides cross-section views of the clutch. That's helped me understand how it is supposed to work: the split (cut into three separate weights) clutch weights don't actually engage the bell at all, the centripetal force throws the weights outward (transversely), and by their angled face, they push axially away from the flywheel, and thus push the other weight (the one that is not cut into pieces) against the bell.
Considering track conditions, do the two different configurations of clutch weights (swing-style versus push-style) really behave that much differently?
Thanks all for the good information.
So I just had a track day( high traction asphalt) and my clutch was set up swing style with the flywheel nut threading sticking out the clutch nut 0.6mm using the clutch spring supplied with 2 lines in it/1.8mm thick. That made the clutch engage just how you described you want yours ( we have the same engine). MS building the centax clutch isn’t much the same as kyosho’s but the idea is the same, have to get to the same outcome. As far as the gap, just add shims until it’s snug then remove the amount for desired gap( for example if you want .5mm and 1mm makes it snug/wont spin, remove .5mm of shims)..
I have used push style as well, the swing style felt more aggressive and maybe even too aggressive for very high grip..,IMO of course
As your clutch is now, when you are driving and you want the clutch to engage sooner, you can tighten the clutch nut spring through the little hole on the clutch bell. Line up the bell and notch in the nut and tighten about 1/8 of a turn, test drive and repeat if needed