Originally Posted by
Isaac
The SP1, one of "the rest" has done well at the past indoor champs and many other events. Some of the other chassis you mentioned (the rest) also did well at TITC and many big events. All competition level chassis for the most part are are capable of winning.
I don't dispute that at all, thats a great achievment and maybe a step forward. I hope it will only get better, maybe the new chassis Ryan is working on will be another step forward.
But to gauge the performance of a car there are only 2 places to look in my opinion.
- Highly competitive races, because the variance in driving skill of those top pilots is minimal and that should show more of the cars potential instead of driver skill
- How my buddies do on race days. If they struggle often with their cars either the cars base itself or the base setup isn't figured out yet.
Maybe i will die on that hill, but the narrative that a good driver can win with every chassis or even driving a brick is completely false.
A bad car can set hotlaps but driving consistent for 5 min and repeat that 3 times would be a outlier.
It comes clearer if you look at nitro offroad races. You can't hold a bad car for 45min mains on winning pace, that is nearly impossible.
A good pilot can win with a brick, yes,
BUT only against drivers that are 2 skill levels below.
My point is proven in 1:1 motorsport on nearly every occation. Why is in F1 Charles Leclerc capable of driving for pole but will be beaten in every GrandPrix? Not because Charles is a bad driver, but because the Ferrari is not consistently fast. An amazing pole lap can happen but being on pace for 305km is impossible, if the car can't help the driver.
Originally Posted by
gigaplex
Are you restricting your searches to specific track types? I've seen Volker setups for the MTC2R that goes as low as 0mm shims. As a gross oversimplification, the higher the grip, the bigger the shims.
Ok, then i was looking at exactly the wrong ones
I thought i looked at a wide spectrum. Sorry, my bad.
At least it seems to me that I am rather surprised when I see a setup these days that uses very low shims.
Originally Posted by
Grindog001
So far I'm not a fan. It's getting it's debut tonight but I think I just prefer my A800RR.
I haven't tried it but rasing the roll centres at the front by removing the alloy mounted brace from the chassis, I think the arms might touch the front bumper.
I just found the manual very underwhelming. It gets it built with very little explanation of anything.
If you remove the shims where you mentioned you will get low RollCenter.
I would be damn careful to use only standard shims instead of the alloy braces, if you don't want to risk damaging your chassis.
Those braces have a recess in which the countersunk head of the screw sits. All countersunk holes in the chassis have a diameter of ~3.65mm instead of the normal ~3.0 mm for a M3 screw.